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Routes in Upper Freeway Wall

Anacram T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cakewalk T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freeway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Junkyard God T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Meaner than a Junkyard Dog T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
MetroLink TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nobody Walks in LA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty Gritty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sig Alert (aka Cast Up a Highway) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Fish, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Totally Nuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unknown route 2 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charles Cole, Steve Anderson & Marjorie Shovlin, 1981
Page Views: 2,409 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jan 7, 2003 with updates from Will S
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route starts left of Anacram (5.10c) at a yucca below a small roof.

Climb up to the overlap, and the corner beyond, then cross a slab and tackle a short steep section. Climb the crack above to the roof line. Cross this on the left and head up a thin, steep crack, this eases to become a chimney.


Standard rack to 3". Small wires at the crux.


A more interesting and in my opinion better way to finish this route is to move left 5' from the base of the chimney to a short (12-15') vertical dihedral with a roughly finger sized crack in it. A couple steep moves up this lead to a mantel top out instead of the easier / less elegant squeeze chimney to the right. Jan 7, 2003
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
I agree with Josh about the finish. This is a fantastic route - one of my favorite pitches at JTree so far. Feb 4, 2003
It is also possible to traverse left from the thin crack section and finish at the bolted anchor for Sig Alert (aka Cast Up A Highway).

The crux of this route seems to be the initial corner at the bottom. Feb 7, 2005
tony grice  
Super fun, cool climbing, lots of cool mini roofs and stems. DO IT! Nov 13, 2006
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Way fun! Apr 30, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
The climbing is fun enough, but I found a few sections of poor rock quality. Might be cleaner now, this was many years ago, but I tossed off a few loose things when I did it around 2006. Jan 3, 2016
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
Do the finish Josh describes that goes left into the dihedral. That alone gives the route 4 stars in my opinion. Super classic 5.7 finish that is super airy Feb 28, 2018
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
Blitzo's photo shows a lefthand start - we did the start directly behind the yucca (same as shown in TomCaldwell photo). Had a short fall on a small nut before figuring out the moves.
Higher up, topping out a stem/roof section I found questionable holds and decided to downclimb a couple of moves then went straight left to the SigAlert anchors.
Not much jamming, interesting route and climbing, but will gladly repeat CakeWalk and skip this one in the future. Apr 15, 2018

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