PRINT: Rock Climb Humerus, Joshua Tree National Park

Humerus

5.10b, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 90 votes
FA: Bob Gaines, Tony Sartin, May 2002
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Snickers > Snickers - N Face

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Located on the North Face of Snickers. Begin about 10 feet right of the high point of the base of the cliff (a few feet right of Funny Bone and just left of Don't Think Just Jump).

Up the face past two bolts (5.10) then up easy horizontals to an upper face past two more bolts to a two-bolt rappel anchor.

Note that a fall before you got the first bolt clipped could end very badly. Consider stick clipping the first bolt if you have any doubts.

Protection

Four bolts, thin to 2.5-inch pro; two-bolt rappel anchor (80 foot lower/rap).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Humerus

Radius (blue) and Humerus (white).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joseph Lee

This is a very fun route with great moves. It's only downside is the easy section in the middle that interrupts the flow. Oct 14, 2005

susan peplow
Joshua Tree

5.10a

I thought this route was fun and enjoyed the climbing. I like how you were made to think almost right from the start. Easier climbing to follow but nice features. Makes a great link up with the .11 up high.

~S May 30, 2008

Brian in SLC
Sandy, UT

5.10c

I traversed in from the left but, my partner, slightly taller than me, climbed straight up to the first bolt. I busted off a semi-key hold between the first and second bolts; it was a right hand two finger knob just up and right from the seam. I think the route is likely 10c or so now... Dec 1, 2008

Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA

5.10b

Had alot of fun on this one, mantled no hands at the start, then fun moves past the first two bolts. Top is easy but slightly overhanging so that is exciting. More continuous would be a classic. Mar 18, 2011

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada

5.10c

I agree with the 10c rating, though I'm not a gym climber and the section at the bottom may be reminiscent of gym type climbing moves at least for JT where I'm more accustomed to cracks and smeary types of routes. Pumpy moves down low lead to an easier section where I rested up for the exciting exit sequence. I really liked this route. Apr 18, 2011

SCherry
Boulder, CO

5.10b

I didn't have time to try all the routes on this wall, but this was the most fun of any of the 4-5 mixed routes in this area. Def better than Night Shift which is fun but has inferior rock quality. Recommended. Jan 28, 2013

Gavin Bridgeman
California

Good route that should not be missed! Mar 8, 2014

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.10b

Nice spot for a gray finger sized bd camalot a few feet above the 2nd bolt (not entirely necessary). We also placed a #2 bd cam, a small blue bd cam, and a small/midsize nut between the 2nd and 4th bolt. Sewed it up! Nov 23, 2021