[Hide Comment] Climbed this to set a toprope on W.A.C. Would be a great first lead for a beginner. Otherwise forgettable. As an edit:I upped my star rating to two stars, since it would be a nice and safe lead for a new leader. Sep 8, 2010

[Hide Comment] We climbed this intending to rap off of the chains on W.A.C., which from photos appears to be an easy walk from the top of this climb. When we got there, we saw that the photos give the wrong impression, and it was not going to be trivial to get up to those chains; we didn't see any way to protect it, and weren't comfortable doing it without protection. There does not appear to be any possible walk-off to climber's left, nor is there any way to reach the walk-off on climber's right without climbing up to the chains for W.A.C. With hindsight, maybe what we needed to do was find the chains for Fun Stuff, but we left gear and rapped off. A 60 m rope got us to a reasonably secure ledge about 6' off the ground, but we had to carefully even out the ends of the rope. This climb is in sun all day, so not something you want to do on a warm afternoon. May 25, 2014

[Hide Comment] Agree with Ben, this climb does NOT have bolted anchors. You can get to the bolted anchor if you choose climb 15 feet of slab to the top of the neighboring 5.8, after getting to the top of this climb.

If you lower off your own gear, you can walk around the formation and sqquuueeeezzzeee through the crack on the other side to retrieve your gear. Oct 12, 2020

[Hide Comment] The route is a fun 5.2 romp. To get to the anchor for OneSHoe/WAC, I did the unprotected step across static and it felt as hard as any movements on swing low... only a fall at that point would have been bad news into the 5.2 chimney that narrows toward the bottom. Approaching that same anchor from the other side after Helix was a 4th class hop. After rigging TR on the anchor, I lowered and tried the move onto the slab from the belay ledge and felt that was worse like 5.9 and again no fall zone if on lead. For a 5.2 leader, I would recommend squeezing through to walk off as Michael Mukhin suggested. Jun 2, 2021

[Hide Comment] Solely as a 5.2 climb with a walk off, its an awkward one-star that really isn't worth doing. It is technically easy, but so awkward and annoying that I can't recommend for a new climber.

As a 5.2 way to access the chains of the nearby climbs, its a bomb.
There is no 5.2 protected way to reach the chains of either climbs to the left and right.
It requires either chimneying and a step across to the right (unprotected, probably not 5.2), the top section of The Sound One Shoe Tapping (not the hardest part of the route, but a fall would be crippling), or a short steep face to crack section to the left when the angle of the climb begins to lessen (probably 5.6/7). Mar 5, 2023

[Hide Comment] Got to the top of this not sure what to expect, ended up stemming the wide top bit and getting onto the other side before jumping to the other dome that has the anchors for “the sound of one shoe tapping”. It’s a spooky jump but actually not a terribly bad way to rap down/ set up on that climb. I thought this was super secure climbing, great for a beginning leader which I am. Would recommend the adventure of this one! Oct 25, 2023

[Hide Comment] Climb Helix instead. Never climb this. Never. Nov 17, 2023

[Hide Comment] If you want to practice getting into and out of trouble, this is the route for you. Otherwise...NOOOOO!!!

The climbing is, ok. It protects well enough for easy climbing. You can practice groveling in the chute if that's something you're into.

But when you get to the "anchor" your choices for getting down with all your gear are WAY above 5.2 and realistically unprotectable. The option to the right up the slab (...One Shoe Tapping) is 100% no-fall and if the beginning is brining a more experienced climber up, there is no Jesus piece. If you to the left (Raging Intensity) you have to do a bottom-clenching step and step over before boulder hopping and then down climbing low grade slab to the rings.

This deserves its own rings but the Park Service will probably....(you know) Feb 11, 2024

[Hide Comment] Making the move to the "shoe tapping" anchor is exciting. To avoid the "shoe" anchor, just build your anchor at the top of the climb on "climber's left." Then rap down Fun Stuff anchors.
There is also a walk off if you go thru the skinny gap to the valley behind the buttress.
Just because MP and guide books have lines drawn doesn't mean that that's where the route finishes. Think 5.2 and you'll find 5.2.
No need for bolts here. Climb safe.
-Andy Feb 11, 2024