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Routes in Safety First Rock

Casual Affair T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Safety Pin T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, 1984
Page Views: 444 total · 2/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 21, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin on a boulder near the left end and traverse right above a roof to large stances. The first gear placement is about 15' off the ground but the climbing difficulty through the initial section is moderate (5.10-). Continue upward past one bolt and a piton before reaching the sustained crux section using side pulls, protruding edges, and small crystals to a sloping ledge. A move over a bulge near the top leads to a two bolt anchor.

Location

This fine route ascends the middle section of the Safety First Rock through a series of discontinuous slanting seams on solid rock. The Safety First Rock is about 40' right of the Future Games formation.

Protection

Many small stoppers including brass and #00 - #3 TCU's provide adequate protection. One bolt (3/8") and a solid piton are also present. A two bolt (3/8") anchor is present on top of the rock.

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