PRINT: Rock Climb Waltzing Worm, Joshua Tree National Park

Waltzing Worm

5.12a, Trad, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 21 votes
FA: Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt, 1980
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Super Creeps Wall

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The super fun thin crack on the right side of the wall starting with a small roof. A short but excellent exercise in thin crack climbing.

Pull the roof then continue up the steep crack above cranking on thin jams where you can get them.

Above the roof, there used to be a plate next to the crack that provided a nice hold, but the flake broke off circa 2006.

Protection

Carry gear to two inches, with an emphasis on gear in the one-inch range.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Anne Carrier on Waltzing Worm, 1988.

"Waltzing Worm". Photo by Blitzo.

Looking up at Waltzing Worm from below with Young Frankenstein seen just to the left.

RTM on Waltzing worm Photo:J. Browning

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Beck

5.12a

Pretty fun route, bring lots of thin gear. The only place I got fingers was in a couple of mini-pods / scars at the start, more like seam climbing for me. One of the cruxes for me was protecting the opening sequence pulling the mini-roof, as the obvious gear placement to keep you off the deck for the cruxy moves ahead had my fingers in it...

3 stars out of 5 maybe? Nov 5, 2004

Jerry Handren

Checked this out to-day. Suprisingly, no change in grade, although the upper sequence is probably the crux now that the flake is gone. Dec 5, 2007

Shay H
Boulder, CO

If using the correct sequence the bottom roof goes at 5.11b or so. Now that the flake is gone, the top is the desperate part. Jan 25, 2009