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Routes in Super Creeps Wall

Scary Monsters T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Cheap T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales Of Powder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waltzing Worm T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young Frankenstein T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt, 1980
Page Views: 152 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Nov 30, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The super fun thin crack on the right side of the wall starting with a small roof. A short but excellent exercise in thin crack climbing.

Pull the roof (crux) then continue up the steep crack above at one point utilizing a nice plate next to the crack. Not too bad - just straight-forward cranking on fingerlocks.

This gets the same rating as it's neighbor Scary Monsters, but climb both and see if this route doesn't seem a bit easier... ah..ratings!

Protection

gear to 2", especially to 1"
snowey  
If using the correct sequence the bottom roof goes at 5.11b or so. Now that the flake is gone, the top part is the desperate part. Jan 25, 2009
Checked this out to-day. Suprisingly, no change in grade, although the upper sequence is probably the crux now that the plate is gone. Dec 5, 2007
Josh Beck
  5.12a
Josh Beck  
  5.12a
Pretty fun route, bring lots of thin gear. The only place I got fingers was in a couple of mini-pods / scars at the start, more like seam climbing for me. One of the cruxes for me was protecting the opening sequence pulling the mini-roof, as the obvious gear placement to keep you off the deck for the cruxy moves ahead had my fingers in it...

3 stars out of 5 maybe? Nov 5, 2004
That nice plate which Chris mentions, happens to be quite flexible. It is nice definitely, but be careful to pull straight down onto it, rather than out so you don't break it. When I lead this route for the first time, I dynoed for that flexible flake (which is near the top of the crack, on it's left side) and I felt it flex outward so much I was certain it was about to bust off. Luckily, I only weigh 140 pounds, so it held, but beware! Awesome climb by the way! Mar 14, 2003