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Routes in Super Creeps Wall

Scary Monsters T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Cheap T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tales Of Powder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waltzing Worm T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young Frankenstein T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt, 1980
Page Views: 1,597 total · 10/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This local classic is the left-facing corner in the center of the wall, and although short it will test your flexibility as well as gear placing skills should you decide lead it. Three stars out of five.

Getting established on the route requires a difficult move but there does exist a crux section midway, although hanging on long enough to get gear is the real crux. Seldom led due to the time-consuming placements but easily set up as a toprope.

This route has slightly more difficult moves than 29 Palms (5.11d), but it lacks that route's continuty and length. The Condor (5.12a), Warrior Eagle (5.12b) and The Thrill of Desire (5.12c) are some slightly harder stemming corners in the Park.

Protection

gear to 2", especially many thin wires

Photos

john strand
southern colo
  5.12a
john strand   southern colo
  5.12a
Not a good route if hungover Aug 10, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12a
I led this route on a recent trip to J-Tree and I found the climbing to be superb, if a bit short. As for laybacking, I had to bust a few layback moves in the middle, but to layback the whole thing seems like it would be really taxing. There are good footholds on either wall that allow stances for placing gear.

I'd be tempted to give it three stars, but since I'm not a J-Tree local, I don't want to buck tradition. We just don't get much of that kind of pure stemming here in New Hampshire, so this route was really unique for me. Mar 27, 2007
RTM
  5.12a
RTM  
  5.12a
Sweet little route. Discombobulating stems and THIN pro. Prolly not 3 stars tho. Feb 13, 2003