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Scary Poodles

5.11b, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 58 votes
FA: Darryl Nakahira & Randy Vogel, November 1982
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress -…
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The premiere route on the wall, this stellar line is classic Josh climbing with mostly face climbing protected by gear.

The moves aren't that difficult, but the trick is hanging out long enough to wiggle the gear in. A pin protects the lower crux, although there is another tricky section just below the top, especially if pumped.

Mostly face climbing with gear, this is like an advanced version of Poodles Are People Too, which lies further to the left on the same wall.

Location

Found in the center of the formation, this lies just right of a chimney and is identified by left- slanting thin cracks in brown rock.

Protection

fixed pin and gear to 2.5", especially many thin to 1"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Curley going for it towards the end of Scary Poodles.
[Hide Photo] Curley going for it towards the end of Scary Poodles.
"Scary Poodles".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Scary Poodles". Photo by Blitzo.
Off-balance, powerful, and unique route! Small offset cams were great to have.
[Hide Photo] Off-balance, powerful, and unique route! Small offset cams were great to have.
In the vicinity of the crux. Photo by Martin M.
[Hide Photo] In the vicinity of the crux. Photo by Martin M.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Good climbing, but the crux is really protecting the 8 to 10 feet after the pin, the crux, where I found the placements to be C2 -- hard to get and not very trustworthy. Furthermore, I wouldn't want to bet the farm on the pin which flexes with a good downward pull. Apr 21, 2004
[Hide Comment] Very enjoyable climbing on this one. Descriptions seem to be spot on: a nice steep pumper requiring hang time to place decent gear. Oct 29, 2007
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Super pumpy! 3 blue tcu size pieces would be nice, I pumped out trying to place a green c3 after the pin where a blue tcu would have fit much better Feb 10, 2012
Dustin Stephens
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Fantastic route, one of my favorites in the park! Apr 27, 2019
[Hide Comment] Hundred percent agree that the crux is punching the gear in. That being said, there is plenty of good gear to be had, even in the few moves beyond the pin. Narrow-headed cams are a huge plus. Mar 30, 2025