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Scary Poodles
5.11b,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 58
votes
FA: Darryl Nakahira & Randy Vogel, November 1982
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Rdsi…
> Hemingway Buttress
> Hemingway Buttress -…
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The premiere route on the wall, this stellar line is classic Josh climbing with mostly face climbing protected by gear.
The moves aren't that difficult, but the trick is hanging out long enough to wiggle the gear in. A pin protects the lower crux, although there is another tricky section just below the top, especially if pumped.
Mostly face climbing with gear, this is like an advanced version of Poodles Are People Too, which lies further to the left on the same wall.
Location
Found in the center of the formation, this lies just right of a chimney and is identified by left- slanting thin cracks in brown rock.
Protection
fixed pin and gear to 2.5", especially many thin to 1"
[Hide Photo] Off-balance, powerful, and unique route! Small offset cams were great to have.
[Hide Photo] In the vicinity of the crux. Photo by Martin M.
Yosemite