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Ben
5.10b,
Trad, 125 ft (38 m),
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
FA: Dave Houser, Darryl Nakahira, Doug Ziesner, Todd Gordon & Ian Carter, November 1980
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland South
> Wonderland Valley
> E Wonderland Va…
> Nomad Dome
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that: 1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor. 2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
The furthest left route on the west face, this climbs past a small roof (crux) down low to easier face moves above. The anchor is below the top of the rock, but one can easily climb past to the top of the rock.
[Hide Photo] 70's vintage Houser hangers. The top row shows hangers with the DPH stamp and includes an uncommon left-facing hanger (top right). The bottom row shows a normal clip-in eye (center) and others def…
[Hide Photo] Pulling over the small roof leading to nothing special above.
[Hide Photo] A 70's vintage Houser hanger with 1/4" x 1.25" split shaft Rawldrive bolt and the modern hardware (3/8" x 3.5" that typically replaces it. Which would you prefer?
[Hide Comment] The anchor atop this route is the same as the pro; 2 smash-in type bolts. One of them is a spinner. The other looks solid. We found one sling with one end each tied to a respective bolt with a 3/8" welded ring. My partner retied the sling so each was a separate loop. If you plan to rap from these anchors you might want to take a couple of slings and some new rap rings. Of course, then your ropes (you'll need two) will end up in the giant prickly pear arrangement at the bottom.
Feb 16, 2004
[Hide Comment] I'd say the crux is the edging to get up to the little roof. Pulling the roof wasn't so bad with a good undercling and a hold to the left to pull on. These bolts are not really cutting it. I think the innitials DPH were stamped on them. Oh, as for the rappel. I rapped to the right chain anchors atop Willard to get down. One rope for sure.
Mar 13, 2005
[Hide Comment] These bolts (and hangers) are the original 1/4 inchers placed on the FA. The hangers were homemade aluminum jobs made by Dave Houser ("DPH"). These used to be found on all sorts of his routes in the Park, but have been mostly replaced over the years. The problem with these hangers is that they deform (as a result of falls) over time, until they break without warning.
Mar 14, 2005
[Hide Comment] Hey Randy, I kinda like seeing old bolts and finding out their history but in a fall... Anyhow, in the '92 publication, Ben is rated 10a on the Nomad page and 10b in the index of the book. Which one did you mean or what will it be in the new book?
Mar 14, 2005
[Hide Comment] Still has buttonheads as of 2013. The anchor should be replaced as it is needed if you top out on any of the routes. a 70m does not reach the ground without traversing to other anchor.
Dec 28, 2013
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
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