Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Gunsmoke

V3, Boulder, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 527 votes
FA: John Bachar
California > Joshua Tree NP > Joshua Tree Bou… > Central Joshua… > Barker Dam Boul… > Gunsmoke Area > Gunsmoke Wall
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This is perhaps the most classic Joshua Tree boulder problem. It's as famous as Yosemite's Midnight Lightning, Hueco Tank's Ghetto Simulator or Boulder's Monkey Traverse, Gunsmoke requires little introduction.

The Gunsmoke Traverse is L-shaped and is usually done from left to right. Start as far left as possible, move right along the wall for about 50' past 2 crux sections, turn the corner (third crux), and continue another 35' along rails to a final bulge. If your guns aren't too smoked, reverse your moves back to the start (in days of yore, to legitimately claim to have done the problem required completely traversing across in both directions and the problem was rated 5.11+).

It's not uncommon to find a dozen or more people here at any given time. Several other quality problems can be found in the vicinity, including the classic stemming problem Streetcar Named Desire (V6) and The Chube (V2). 

Southern exposure makes this a hot one during mid-day - best done in the late afternoon.

In the late 1980s and much of the 1990s, a local climber known as The Birdman dominated this problem. He could be found on the route every afternoon. At the height of his powers, he completed roughly 35 passes of the traverse without stepping onto the ground!!!!

Protection

Crash pad.

Videos

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

L to R Dave Titus, Patrick Edlinger (R.I.P.), Patrick's friend Wolfgang, and Dwain Warren at bouldering at Gunsmoke. Circa mid 80s
[Hide Photo] L to R Dave Titus, Patrick Edlinger (R.I.P.), Patrick's friend Wolfgang, and Dwain Warren at bouldering at Gunsmoke. Circa mid 80s
Ian performs a mandatory figure 4 to top out after leading Gunsmoke Traverse. Snow is about to fall. I cannot confirm or deny if any alcohol was involved.
[Hide Photo] Ian performs a mandatory figure 4 to top out after leading Gunsmoke Traverse. Snow is about to fall. I cannot confirm or deny if any alcohol was involved.
Myself on the 1st half of Gunsmoke Traverse
[Hide Photo] Myself on the 1st half of Gunsmoke Traverse
John with fantastic static tension hitting the crux
[Hide Photo] John with fantastic static tension hitting the crux
Me on the Onsight
[Hide Photo] Me on the Onsight
Myself towards the end of gunsmoke figuring out the beta.<br>
<br>
(Jackie Trejo)
[Hide Photo] Myself towards the end of gunsmoke figuring out the beta. (Jackie Trejo)
Smoking on Gunsmoke!
[Hide Photo] Smoking on Gunsmoke!
A well earned rest....
[Hide Photo] A well earned rest....
Gunsmoke
[Hide Photo] Gunsmoke
Nailing the short person crux.
[Hide Photo] Nailing the short person crux.
Lapping the traverse
<br>

<br>
Photo by Dalton Johnson
<br>
www.daltonjohnsonmedia.com
<br>
@daltonjohnsonmedia
[Hide Photo] Lapping the traverse Photo by Dalton Johnson www.daltonjohnsonmedia.com @daltonjohnsonmedia
You can get a good rest if you do a heel/toe cam where my foot is
[Hide Photo] You can get a good rest if you do a heel/toe cam where my foot is

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Theo Colameco
Boulder,Co.
[Hide Comment] I was in J-Tree in 1990 and watched JT climbing legend, the Birdman, on this problem. My partners and I were wowed to see his mastery of the problem; he made it look effortless.

Later, the Birdman climbed on our top ropes in Echo Cove. He went up the climb and then down the climb, again up another time then down again. Quiet as he was, he spoke with his climbing and his precision. Thanks for the inspiration, Birdman!!! Mar 20, 2010
T B
 
[Hide Comment] I found this traverse in maybe 1981? when it was virgin. Pretty exciting find. Guess its good to see plenty enjoy it... but most crowed in the Tree? Whoa. After a few weeks of having it to myself, I showed it off to some of the Uplanders I was hanging out with at the time, and we worked it for a few months (weekends) after that, before anyone else knew of it.

It got it's name one day when John and Mike approached me while loafing at a campsite in Hidden Valley and asked me if I knew anything about the traverse near Barker. To which I replied... um yes. John commented that he thought it was Yaniro's secret work out area.... and asked if I had named it (Hadn't). I had told him I considered calling it Joe's Garage (Zappa... which John had inadvertently turned me on to one day hanging out at Mike Brown's tent in Tuolumne). Don't remember if it was John or Mike that mentioned there was already a Joe's Garage. John asked what I thought (John was always a class act) about "Gunsmoke"... "Cause when your done... your guns are smokin'". I concurred (he had a talent for naming stuff... like Cellulite Eliminator in the Meadows) and so it was. Aug 31, 2011
Jackson J
  V3
[Hide Comment] It is possible to top this out in two ways. The first is to use the holds on the farthest right section of the traverse and then downclimb the tree. The second is to top out up the horizontals just before the end of the traverse on the left. Apr 6, 2017
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] This has been climbed many thousands of times sans pad. There’s only a couple spots you might want one, but a spotter or an alert head will keep you from hitting anything. Your feet are never more than about 4 feet off the deck. Dec 2, 2021
Devon Arreola
San Diego
 
Adam Stackable
Tulsa, OK
  V3
[Hide Comment] Flash of Gunsmoke: youtu.be/TRTdhOK-rfM May 10, 2023
Clare Norman
Phoenix, AZ