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Routes in Upper Freeway Wall

Anacram T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cakewalk T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freeway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Junkyard God T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Meaner than a Junkyard Dog T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
MetroLink TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nobody Walks in LA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty Gritty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sig Alert (aka Cast Up a Highway) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Fish, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Totally Nuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unknown route 2 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Chick Holtkamp & John Lakey, February 1978
Page Views: 6,392 total · 34/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Nov 7, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Cakewalk climbs an obvious crack on the south side of Freeway Wall, fairly high up the gully before reaching the highpoint of a small pass.

Climb the nice thin hand crack up to where the wall steepens and the crack thins. Traverse left a few feet to a juggy hand crack going over a small overhang. Head up and a bit right on the crack as it goes from hands to fingers to fist.

This is a nice sustained pitch. Pretty easy for 5.9 - this is a good lead for those breaking into 9.

Protection

Stoppers, cams to 3 inches.
steverett
San Diego, CA
 
steverett   San Diego, CA
 
At 5'10", I found the traverse very easy, 5.7 or so. For my shorter partner, it was more like 5.10. Feb 5, 2018
Fernando Cal
Long Beach, CA
  5.8
Fernando Cal   Long Beach, CA
  5.8
Awesome climb with fun traverse! Probably one part where I felt a little awkward past the crux section. Very well protected and eats nuts! Hands and feet are all there, and superb view once of area after topping out. Easy terrain for top out. Jan 3, 2017
rosie pine
Oakland, CA
  5.9+
rosie pine   Oakland, CA
  5.9+
I'm 5'5", and the traverse felt hard for 5.9. I had to get a high right foot and move out dynamically, unlike my taller partner who could just reach the jug from a smear. I was glad I followed this! Would be a hard first 5.9 lead for shorter climbers. Jun 17, 2016
Phil Esra  
 
Fun! Loved the traverse. Would call it more like "hard 5.8" than soft 5.9. Dec 9, 2014
Canon
  5.8+
Canon  
  5.8+
The long traverse move left onto the huge jug is easy, but I spent a good five minutes at the stance before the traverse trying to figure out a "5.8" way to go straight UP the crack. So, look around. Fun climb, but not a great one. Lots of nuts and .5-1 BD cams. Nov 17, 2012
Ross Hokett
Fayetteville, AR
Ross Hokett   Fayetteville, AR
this route is really great,and gets excellent sun in the morning I welded a stopper on this thing a few years ago looking forward to revisiting it Oct 23, 2012
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
  5.8
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
  5.8
A fun warm up if you are confident at the grade. If you are pushing the grade a great climb that is easy to protect with many bomber nut placements. I'm 5'7 and found the traverse to be a bit exciting, but not bad once you figure out the feet. You can place a super good large nut before you make the traverse, quickdraw and sling it, then another bomber nut on the left crack, quickdraw and sling it. Do this and you will have very little rope drag.

I'd call it 5.8. Sep 27, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.9
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.9
Did this a couple years back and remember it being super classic, one of my favorite moderate routes in the park. The traverse is awesome. Dec 14, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.9-
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.9-
As mentioned, the crux traverse move is totally height/reach dependent. At 6' this will feel like 5.7, at 5'3" it will feel like hard 5.9. Mar 30, 2007
David Wang
San Francisco, CA
  5.8-
David Wang   San Francisco, CA
  5.8-
Awesome route with lots of features on the face and around the crack. The holds at the crux are unbelievably "ergonomic"! Not too bad at all if you are tall enough and likes face holds. Nov 5, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
I've seen short people work harder at the traverse (look at my picture of Scott).

I climbed this route in the late afternoon of a perfect day one year, I was in good form (for a change) and had a fantastic time on it, almost an epiphany, for some reason it just stuck in my head.

A lot of the so called classic climbs at JT don't have a view of the desert floor half as good as this. The traverse adds a little spice and character, the rock is perfect, it's steep, the moves are athletic, there are no ledges anywhere, it's sustained at its grade. I think it's a classic - maximum stars.

As far as ratings are concerned the more people who offer an opinion the more accurate the grade - grades are built by consensus. So, I'd say 5.8. Apr 26, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.9-
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.9-
I agree with Tony - there's a move on the traverse that is reach-dependent. Apr 25, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.9-
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9-
Very very nice, fun route. Highly recomended. Jan 28, 2006
Joe Brophy
San Diego
  5.8
Joe Brophy   San Diego
  5.8
Like others have said, a very fun route and I could also see how there would be a long line if it was located in Hidden valley campground. Great pro for those leading near their limit. Jan 18, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
5.8, 5.8+, 5.9-, 5.9, 5.whatever.......it is an extreamly enjoyable route that protects very well. She loves those nuts. Easy to find, sun in the winter, surrounded by fantastic views and other great climbs, easy walkoff.what more could you ask? I see it as a must do and one to repeat time and time again. A new favorite of mine........regardless of it's rating..... Nov 22, 2004
Mike Hack
  5.8
Mike Hack  
  5.8
I found it similar in many ways to Sail Away: good stances for gear, great nut placements, fun route, similar difficulty. But no queue at the base! Nov 8, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Difficulty depends on height. The traverse move is hardest for shorter climbers, at least if my partner is a fair judge of that. This climb would be 3* if it had kept going as for the first 20M, but the top kicks back to low angle and is a little junky (loose blocks and dirt in the crack) and this robs the route of what it could have been by one star. Still very fun though. Jan 11, 2004
Dynomight510
  5.8+
Dynomight510  
  5.8+
Great route. Good pro all the way up. Nice traverse move in the middle. Aug 21, 2003
I'm glad the rating for this route will drop to 5.8. As per some comments vis a vis changing ratings, JT is infamous for sandbagging. It does no harm to refine the ratings over time. Most ratings that change will be lowered and a few raised. I've heard on more than one occasion both guides referred to as the book of lies. Both Vogel and Bartlett do their best, and one way to do so is through recommendations from climbers. May 13, 2003
I'll buy the 5.8 rating. It is an exellent route but soft for 5.9. Feb 25, 2003
Randy
5.8
Randy  
5.8
Very soft for a 5.9; it will be 5.8 in the new guide. Otherwise an excellent climb and well worth doing.

Jan 28, 2003
Josh Beck
  5.8-
Josh Beck  
  5.8-
This is probably the softest 9 I've done at jtree. I'd call it 5.8 or maybe even 5.7 though I don't remember it THAT well. I recall it seeming easier than a lot of 8's that I did at approximately the same time (Continuum, Nurn's Romp, Dappled Mare, Dogleg, etc)... Dec 3, 2002

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