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Bonzo Dog Band
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 72
votes
Routes in Echo Cove - South Face
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Allergy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ass of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Asthma T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Atari T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Axe of Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bacon Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Barbed Wire TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bonzo Dog Band T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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C.S. Special T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cactus Pricks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Central Pilar of Finley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Chips Ahoy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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F.U.N. TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fear of Dogs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fear of God T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flake and Bake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Gordon-Bartlett T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Wire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Horny Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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J.B.'s Variation TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jay's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Life and Limb T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Out on a Limb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pocket Veto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Poodle Skirt T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Possessed by Elvis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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R.M.L. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Range Wars T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riddler, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sabretooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sicker than Jezouin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sitting Here in Limbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Statute of Limbitations TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Sugar Cube TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Texas Poodle BBQ T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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TM's Terror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0242, -116.1582 |
| FA: | Rick Sumner and Don Reid, January 1980 |
| Page Views: | 3,079 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mark J. Nelson on Oct 29, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Locate the four large boulders atop the left end of the south face of South Echo Cove Rock. Bonzo Dog Band is the mostly-left-trending crack system that ends between the middle two of these four boulders. It starts at a large flake just left of a boulder.
There is an alternate start for this route just left of this flake, but the old quarter inch bolt was rusted and hangerless as of late October, 2002. We got onto the climb by getting a large piece high behind the flake, then stepping left onto the face. This was followed by an intimidating, wide, high step to the left, after which the climb eased up considerably, both in difficulty and ease of protection.
Unless you're much smaller than the average leader, you'll end up stretched out on your belly to build a decent gear anchor beneath the boulders.
For the walkoff, crawl back between the boulders atop the route. You'll find yourself in an open, airy cave system. Walk left until you leave the cave, then climb (low fifth class) onto the very top when it becomes convenient. Keep walking left, scramble down a couple more fourth-to-low-fifth class downclimb sections, and walk off onto the road.
Though you could reach the top of this climb via the walkoff, the traversing nature would make it a poor toprope.
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