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Butterfingers Make Me Horny
5.8,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 312
votes
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 5/88
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Real Hidden Valley
> Thin Wall
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climbs the first easy looking crack right of the roofy area under a notch in the top of the formation. The first 10 feet are the crux - be careful mantling to get to the first gear placement. After pulling past the crux move on a good fingerlock, easy fun 5.6 jug hauling with bomber stoppers leads to a good ledge where a natural gear belay can be set. Scramble up and left to chains to rap or scramble off. This ledge can be reached with some exposure to set a TR, but this is an excellent beginners lead requiring only a set of stoppers.
The Vogel guidebook calls this 5.9 but it is a one move wonder, and that move didn't feel any harder than 5.8 Mostly fun 5.6
Protection
Stoppers, maybe tricams or small cams in the horizontal near the start.
[Hide Photo] CJ blasting through Butterfingers. Crux is definetely at the bottom.
[Hide Photo] Jess climbing in good style on Butterfingers
[Hide Photo] Straight forward 5.8. I think it's a really soft 5.8 in fact if this is a 5.8 then there is no way that White Lightning is a 5.7.
[Hide Photo] Myong starting up Butterfingers Make Me Horny.
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