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Routes in Hodgepodge Rock - North Face

Hodgepodge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Hot Tub Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ligamentor Seconds in Vans T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Star T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
My Wife is an Alien T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 937 total · 5/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Oct 21, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This is not a route to lead, unless you're prepared to solo it. However, as a toprope, it is popular with institutions due to it's north-facing aspect.

Take the path of least resistance up the featured face.

Descent: scramble off to the west (some downclimbing).

Protection

None if leading. For toproping: large hexes (or cams), thread-through, long webbing. 2 new bolts on the top of the formation can be extended and used.

Photos

Royce Robertson
Joshua Tree, California
Royce Robertson   Joshua Tree, California
There's solid bolts and rings on this. Wish more people would note this for the total noobs like me wondering ;) Apr 4, 2016
Mae Rae
  5.4 R
Mae Rae  
  5.4 R
On lead I was able to get some gear in about 20' from the bottom (1/4 inch cam) and a couple of micro nuts at the prominent horizontal seam. The left facing corner near the top protects well.

This route is easy but definitely runout with the potential for a 30+ foot groundfall. Certainly an R, and could be an X.

From the ground, the horizontal seam looks like it will take some medium-sized cams, but it is too shallow. The only gear that I could make work were some very small nuts (DMM peanuts.) Feb 18, 2014
Adam Stackhouse

  5.4 X
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.4 X
You may or may not die from the various internal injuries from falling on this, so it really is either a solo or TR. Super juggy and fun for the family/noobs Feb 28, 2011
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
To make this climb more challenging, I tied in with a bowline on a coil and climbed it in my flip-flops under the light of the moon. It felt like a 5.8 under the circumstances. Mar 27, 2007
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
  5.4 R
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
  5.4 R
Got 1 marginal cam in about 20' up, bring really small stuff, better yet just solo it. Fun climb though, you can use the bolts from the South face of Bakersfield bomb to rap off or set up top rope, or large cams. Dec 26, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Excellent 5.4. Great solo! Quality rock. Exciting downclimb, my favorite way down off the rock. Sep 7, 2006