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Routes in Varnished Wall

Circle of Benevolence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crank Queenie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Sucks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Meets West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mosaic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presence of Grace T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
With Malice and Forethought T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Scott Stuemke & Dick Armstrong, 1977
Page Views: 1,167 total, 6/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Oct 20, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Crank Queenie is located on the NW side of the Varnished Wall. It is a shallow hand crack that is a bit tricky to protect for the first 20' (sideways-placed nuts, awkward cam placements). Above, the crack deepens and is quite pleasant.

Anchor: slung horn(s).

Descent: scramble off to climber's right or rap off slung horns as for With Malice and Forethought.

Protection

Single cams .75 to 2", a couple of med/lg nuts.

Photos

David Gibbs
Ottawa, ON
David Gibbs   Ottawa, ON
If you climb far enough to rap from the slings at the top of Malice, then this climb is far closer to 90ft than the 40ft indicated. Oct 9, 2015
Dave Kos
Temecula, CA
  5.8
Dave Kos   Temecula, CA
  5.8
Fun, but not as fun as it looks from the road. Feb 16, 2015
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Never have I used ring locks in such a direct manner before. The perfect technique for this shallow crack IMHO. The money is truly solid foot jamming however. Dec 6, 2010
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.8+
We rapped off the large horn at the top-out of Crank Queenie. It's got obvious wear from other parties rapping / pulling their ropes. Nov 8, 2010
flaring crack, looks like a nice hard crack but its good from a far but far from good Jan 11, 2010
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
The rap slings are at the top of Malice. Nov 23, 2009
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
  5.8
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
  5.8
I thought that this was a pretty fun little crack, laybacking, fist jams, and a finger lock as well. I enjoyed climbing it. There is a nice horn to rap off of, when I went off there was a sling and a locking D (12-24-06) Dec 26, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Looks like sinker jams from a distance, but they're not, Sep 18, 2006
good toe jams. and i agree the downclimb was pretty hard. May 17, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Good rock, good moves for the grade Apr 3, 2005
Murf  
Thought the downclimb was harder than the climb. I love JT! Nov 6, 2002