Mark J. Nelson

[Hide Comment] The second pitch is slightly offwidth; I suggest racking to a #4 Camalot. The 5.6 rating is quite reasonable, but it will sure feel more difficult if you're only carrying up to 3 inch gear... Nov 4, 2002

Nathan L.   5.6

[Hide Comment] Mike's Books is a fun route and was one of my first leads (after the Blob) at J-Tree. I remeber the traverse in from the left as being slightly awkward as you move in to the chimmny/groove. There's also alot of flakes and jugs on the face of the groove which makes it go at a reasonable 5.6. The 2nd pitch is a bit wide but not to difficult. After the crack ends you have a bit of face climbing that's protected by 1 bolt.(At least a few years ago). It's hard to see(the bolt) at the begining of the face and you think, "wow this is going to be a sporty finish" but the bolt is there, hidden in a depression. Have fun! Dec 17, 2002

The Gray Tradster   5.5

[Hide Comment] The original rating in the Wolfe book was 5.5. The bolt for the finish didn't appear untill the late 70's or early 80's. The last nut also had an unnerving habit of falling out. There were no bolted belays obviously. Last time I did it thought, (Boy, we used to do this with only hexes?) Nov 17, 2003

Brian Reynolds   5.6

[Hide Comment] Fun route. Carry the biggest pieces you've got, if you want an excuse to place them. You won't need them, but you'll be able to find somewhere to put them if you want to. I'm certainly not encouraging bolting anchors all over the park, but the fact that both of them are bolted on this climb sure makes it a quick one! Dec 17, 2003

Drederek Olympia, WA   5.6

[Hide Comment] I thought the var start looked harder than the dihedral 3 feet to left of it. It seemed about 5.7 to me tho I'm sure anyone much shorter than 6 feet may disagree. Apr 1, 2004

Jimmie   5.6

[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 9/26/04 and the anchors for the first pitch seem to be missing. At least I couldn't find them and I remember them being fairly obvious the last time I did it (several years ago). Not a major malfunction as there is a great horizontal crack to build an anchor, but it means that you'll have to scramble across to the top of Upper Ski Track Right for the rap to the big ledge. You ca no longer do descent in two raps as indicated (at least not without leaving gear). Sep 27, 2004

Bo Johnston

[Hide Comment] After the diheadral on the second pitch and before the face with a bolt finish, I walked to the right and climbed the right facing hand crack to the top and then back to the anchors to belay my second. It is not listed in the book but it felt like 5.8+ (I was wearing my tennies though). Does anyone know if it is the finish to anything?? Mar 24, 2005

Kellen Holt   5.6

[Hide Comment] I found the top of the first pitch akward off-width, but looking back, you could chimney or face climb. If you are not tuned to Jtree runouts, bring a #4 or so piece to protect the wider parts. I ended up thrutching and groveling 15 feet out from a #3 camalot. Don't jump on this route without atleast giving it a once over. Anchor bolts were good as of 12/28/05. Dec 31, 2005

46and2 Salt Lake City, Utah   5.8 PG13

[Hide Comment] We put a grade of 5.8 on this climb only if doing the direct start to pitch 1. You can get a good cam in to protect the direct start but its still a pretty tough move. Be careful on the beginning of pitch 2 (PG-13, bring a large cam!)as the wide section is pretty committing for a 5.6! The anchors are great as of April 06'. Jun 11, 2006

Bill Rusk Rochester, MN   5.7

[Hide Comment] I didn't really enjoy this route. I thought it was a little stiff for 5.6. You could definantly use a #4 for the second pitch. There are much better climbs of that rating in the area. Feb 17, 2008

DaveGustafson Palm Desert, CA   5.8

[Hide Comment] What in the world was with the last part of pitch one?!? My awful-width technique leaves a lot to be desired to begin with, I'm just glad my climbing partner didn't bring the camera! We did the direct 5.8 start and it was feeling a little more like 5.8+ to us. I'd definitely suggest a #4 and an ample supply of 2s and 3s for good measure. A great view and wonderful rap station! Overall, I'd give it an "okay". Apr 5, 2009

Tom Caldwell Clemson, S.C.

[Hide Comment] A #4 is a must! Bring two if you want or walk the single to the top. Jun 2, 2009

attila

[Hide Comment] Over two stars for this climb? You gotta be kidding. Some routes feel like they're meant to be climbed, but not this one. I found it awkward and not enjoyable. If you decide to do it, note that the bolted anchor for pitch one is easily missed (it's hiding off to the right) and have the taller climber in your party do the second pitch. Jan 31, 2010

Bryan Davenport 29palms   5.6

[Hide Comment] The pro on the first portion is a bit sketchy. There are some fun placements on the rest of the first pitch. I used mostly hexes and then a 2 and three camalot. I concur about the anchor. It is still in great shape w/ rappel rings Feb 1, 2010

Bryan Davenport 29palms   5.6

[Hide Comment] It was very windy today, made the lead a little more of a head game. Used larger hexes, sizes 1-3 Camalots and a couple nuts. I'm thinking the alternate start is more like a 5.9 (through the first crack). The second pitch seems 5.8ish. There are good placements without a #4 Feb 20, 2010

Craig Randleman Bend, Or   5.6 PG13

[Hide Comment] I thought this was quite hard, actually. The start of pitch 2 was datardly - wide, deep crack with kinda hard-to-spot feet. Then again, that's why I climb JT - too be scared shitless on easy moderates! Haha! Feb 28, 2010

Ken Noyce Layton, UT   5.8

[Hide Comment] Wow, interesting comments, I thought that this was an enjoyable easy climb. The first pitch variation (the natural line) has one move that felt like 5.8, then it was easy for the rest of the pitch. I thought the second pitch felt like 5.5 or 5.6 max, nowhere near 5.7 or 5.8 as some people are suggesting. I thought the bolt on the face was completely unnecessary for the super easy slab that it's protecting. I did place both a #4 and a #5 C4 on the second pitch. Feb 14, 2011

yosenhuttle

[Hide Comment] Groveled through the 1st pitch... Not a terribly aesthetic route given the other climbs in the area. I doubt I'll ever do this one again Mar 15, 2011

Patrick Kaufer Laguna Hills, CA   5.6

[Hide Comment] Good climb. Can get a bit tricky at the top of P1 but was very enjoyable. May 12, 2011

John Long Venice

[Hide Comment] From the start of the 2nd pitch, you can either go up the crack, or do a harder step up move on the face and carry on up the steep slab and cut into the crack higher up. Another variation, put up around 1975, starts further around on the steep face to the left. There's a big dyno off the ledge to a rounded hold, a difficult step up and some dicy moves to easier ground - a short sequence to the easier (5.8) face above (it cuts over into Mike's Books) but there's no pro, we always bouldered this off the ledge, and it was the first 5.12 at Josh. Hanging that first hold after the big dyno was so hard the route had to be in the shade to stick it. I went back to this sometime in the early 90s long after I was a super active climber and couldn't touch this thing. Aug 6, 2011

Patrick Sanan Lugano, Switzerland

[Hide Comment] Loved this climb. The little traverse at the start demands attention, but after that it's great fun with all kinds of chimney moves and a little easy slab section at the end. Our guidebook said many people skip the second pitch, which is a shame, as it's as much fun if not more than the first, and the ledge you belay from is practically a helipad. As many have noted, big cams are nice to have ( I recall being glad to have a #4 camalot at one point on the first pitch, and the second pitch has many wide placement opportunities). Dec 9, 2011

jake marlow laramie

[Hide Comment] Some climbs are fun because they are hard and others are just fun; this one is the latter. Do the harder start it is way worth it. Jan 13, 2012

david doucette   5.6

[Hide Comment] I climbed this yesterday. the 5.6 traverse start shown in the old vogel book is tricky and we didn't do it. the step across is completely unprotected. we opted for the chute just to the left of the 5.8 start. pitch 2, be sure to bring a number 4 and a 5 if you have them. the biggest piece i had was a number 3 and i kept moving it up 2 or 3 times as i climbed. would have been more helpful to have those bigger pieces. slab part at top has a bolt, not too tricky just stay steady on your feet. solid 5.6. great climb! Dec 7, 2012

Brian Chastain

[Hide Comment] despite being easy I always enjoy climbing this Dec 9, 2013

Alexm53

[Hide Comment] Take care when stepping through the easy but unprotected start of the first pitch. We approached the climb and a fellow had decked it and broke an ankle...Thank God for the guardian angel that was soloing Ill leave him unnamed but good job (A) He broke what could've been a bad head blow. Nov 12, 2014

Ben Crowell Fullerton   5.6

[Hide Comment] The committing steps at the beginning of P1 can be protected. I used a red hexcentric. Feb 13, 2015

Rory Macomber Redlands, California

[Hide Comment] Fun route with some interesting moves. The direct start is more difficult, but it is solid, protectable, and fun. A #4 would be good for the second pitch to avoid getting a little runout, I only had one #3 which made things a little more interesting. All the moves are there to go at 5.6, but this climb can be as difficult as you want to make it. May 7, 2015

The Billy Goat fontana,ca   5.6

[Hide Comment] My first trad lead. Great route for someone looking to build confidence on trad leads. Jan 4, 2016

nathanael Riverside, CA

[Hide Comment] As mentioned, 2nd pitch is wide enough for a #4/5 if you want, but it's not necessary. You can reach deep into the back of the crack to place some smaller gear. After you pull onto the slab at the end there's a bolt protecting the final move (5.4) to the anchors. 5.6 seems fair for the pitch but obviously it can be as difficult as you make it. Jan 25, 2016

Julius E Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Stellar climb! I built a gear anchor on the massive ledge -- it looked much more comfortable than belaying from the set of bolts at the very front of the ledge. The entire route takes pro pretty well. Having a #4 was definitely nice. Mar 8, 2016

Dimes Joshua Tree, Ca.

[Hide Comment] The lead bolt at the top of the second pitch was upgraded today by the ASCA with a 1/2" stainless steel bolt and a SS rock colored hanger. May 31, 2017

Jeremy Almond Las Vegas

[Hide Comment] Body stemmed pitch 2, it was easy that way. Just put your back against the left Wall. Felt 5. Easy that way. Pitch 1 you can go way left and walk up if start is too tough. As it was for me. Oct 24, 2017

Alexis Sonnenfeld Joshua Tree, CA

[Hide Comment] Hey Alexm53, I am just reading your comment from Nov. 2014 after the unfortunate broken ankle incident of the guy who's fall I tried to spot/break, thanks to my girlfriend pointing it out to me today, and inferring that was probably me you were referring to. (We climbed it yesterday, and she decided to look it up on MP later - it never occurred to me to do that - as it's part of my circuit). Good advice, and I appreciate the kind mention, and the immediate kind/selfless and competent help of the unknown emt/climber who helped asses/stabilize/carry him (and whoever else helped us carry him) to his vehicle to be driven to the hospital. I never heard the outcome, but hopefully he fully recovered. Hope you're doing well - take care. Sep 2, 2018

Bridget Tye San Diego, CA   5.6

[Hide Comment] Definitely fair for the grade, I did the direct start. Somehow managed to turn the last bit of pitch 1 into this odd off-width chimney thing. Felt really cool to place my 4 and 5 though. Dec 28, 2020