Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Chris Gonzalez and Mona Stahl, October 1973
Page Views: 13,115 total · 65/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 24, 2002 with updates from Johnny Victor
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Highly popular, Double Dip is a fun, somewhat polished and fairly runout climb up a lieback flake to dished-out face near the left side of the main Echo Slab. Be aware the route wanders a fair bit to seek out the lowest angled possibility up the face and runouts of 20' or so are the norm.

There's a two bolt belay on a flat area next to a dike at the top and the descent is down ramps and slabs to the climber's left. Three stars out of five.


The obvious flake to face on the left side of the face.


5 bolts, gear to 4 inches, 3 bolt anchor (all bolts are 1/2" SS)
* Bolts replaced 2017
What a fabulous route!! For protection, the flake will take a #3 or #3.5 camalot, preferably with a sling or draw to reduce drag. Other than that, don't bother bringing up anything but draws. There are five bolts on the route, plus a two bolt anchor. 4 stars out of 5 (or 3 out of 3) Nov 4, 2002
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
Great route on very slabby rock. I believe there are only four bolts; however, plus the piece of gear you can place behind the flake. Awesome route. Mar 16, 2003
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
As I stated elsewhere, a cam is not a must but certainly a smart move. #3 camalot as suggested in the flake works fine. It is a very enjoyable, fun route and I highly suggest it for the intermediate leader due to the runouts. Others might do better to second or top rope. Jul 12, 2003
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
This was my sons second lead and he did it well. It is a good one for beginners to start on and it also is just one hell of a fun route regardless of the grade. On a stupid dad note, as he was setting up for me to second, I decided to solo it. Now that is not the stupid part. The stupid part is I forgot he would soon be throwing the rope and as I got near the third bolt...........wishhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh and Oh! Oh! as most of it caught me and just about threw me for a certain head banger. This type of behavior and stupidity I do not reccomend. But for myself, I'll probably do something similar soon enough. Too many in the 60's,70's,80's and all the way to the begining of the 90's. "Brain meltdown". Next!!!!!!!!!!! Sep 2, 2003
Bring pro to 4" for the flake unless you want to run it out to the second bolt. The climbing 'ON' the flake is easier than 5.6. If you fall before reaching the second bolt, you will deck. If you choose to climb the flake like an offwidth(?!)it's much harder.

Classic easy slab clibming

Solid for the grade Sep 12, 2003
People are always talking about groundfall on this climb -- the only way there's any danger of that is if you only use the bolts. As you can see from the first action photo down below, the entire flake is very easily protectable with large cams (#3 or #3.5 Camalots work great), and you can reach the second bolt easily while standing on top of the flake. Sep 15, 2003
Graham Roff
Graham Roff  
Was the first bolt there originally? It seems unnecessary as one more easy move puts you at the bottom of the flake where solid gear can be placed.Definitely one of the most fun slab routes for the grade. Mar 21, 2004
The 1st bolt was added many years after the route was originally done (but has been there for a long time too). I my opinion it is totally unecessary. But in light of the fact that it is a very easy climb and no one is really complaining about it, perhaps it is better to leave well enough alone. Mar 21, 2004
Spfld, Ma
GoBotRocker   Spfld, Ma
Another fun route. We had the pleasure of meeting a Swarm of Bee's as they did a drive - by, while we were packing up after the climb. They Buzzed by two climber's and kept going without any incident's. Apr 29, 2004
Fun Route! a great one to start the day. Sep 20, 2004
Bo Johnston  
I didn't think placing gear in the crack was very necessary, although not a bad idea if you're just starting out in the sport. A fun route well worth climbing. Feb 6, 2005
Jason Shatek  
This is a very fun route. I would throw something into the flake on the way up. You'll deck for sure if you don't make the next bolt. I threw in a #5 friend, but the flake will take several different sizes. I was also able to place a yellow alien to the left and up after the second bolt. The route is pretty easy but be sure you trust your feet cuz there isn't many hand holds on this climb! Apr 7, 2005
Kellen Holt
Kellen Holt  
A #3 Camalot and a #10 Trango flexcam protected the flake just fine. The moves off the flake are stout, but not impossible for the grade. Definitely not sport bolted at the top, but the higher you go, the easier the grade. Dec 31, 2005
Adam Stackhouse    
A rare bolted 5.6 line in Joshua Tree. Apr 16, 2006
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.6 PG13
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.6 PG13
EXCELLENT route but I would highly recommend throwing in a cam (3.5 or 4") into the wide crack on your way up as the second bolt is way the hell up there. Although typical slab, stay sharp on the slab above as the bolts are slightly spaced and a fall would not be that enjoyable. Two bolts for anchors up on ledge for belay and then walk off to the North. Jun 11, 2006
Mark L  
If you are not used to josh friction and leading 5.7 or less you might want to have someone else lead if like me you get psyched out easy. Getting up to the bolt above the flake is straight forward and easier than 5.5 I think. I found the head game started at getting into the depression. That move seemed quite technical and felt psychologically more like a 5.7 and a little tenuous. A fall would have caused some nice scrapes for sure. I may just not have seen the move however.

After the depression, getting to the next bolt (up and left) required some time as well to see the feet, and played with my head a little. After that next bolt the feet and angle become easier. It could be that over the years this climb just gets more and more polished but the rating never goes up. Apr 30, 2007
Gary Schenk  
Fun route. We did it on a fine Saturday in February. Echo Rock was incredibly empty! No lines for Double Dip, or Stichter Quits. Mar 3, 2008
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
For what it's worth you can get a marginal Yellow TCU in a shallow crack before the third bolt. I would not want to fall on it, but it would be better than nothing. May 12, 2008
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
The crux clip is height dependent. Had my heart racing before and after that last bolt. Exciting! Jun 2, 2009
Bryan Davenport
Bryan Davenport   29palms
This has to be higher than 80'. Used my 60m Mammut and had to rappel down to the top of the flake to reset. Used a cam and a couple hexes in the flake. Great lead. Feb 15, 2010
Santa Ana
  5.6 PG13
hyadventure   Santa Ana
  5.6 PG13
The flake takes #4 Camalots at the bottom and #3 towards the top. Between bolts 2 and 3 there’s a placement for a #.3 Camalot to the left which will protect the crux move. If you miss the clip on the forth bolt you're toast!! You’ll roll and slide down the slab for at least 30’. The climb is 120+ May 3, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
Nice climb; bring a couple of cams (which I didn't have back in the '80s when I first climbed it!). High quality climb.
Added as an afterthought: I second Randy's comments about DON'T MESS WITH THE BOLTS! Sep 8, 2010

I've led Walk on the Wild Side,

Run for You Life,

No way this is 5.6 Oct 28, 2011
Patrick Sanan
Lugano, Switzerland
Patrick Sanan   Lugano, Switzerland
Lots of fun! The climbing is consistent over a good distance, lots of places to rest, and the bolts seem reasonably spaced (I only used one piece of gear, a #2 cam behind the big flake as high as I could reach before starting up it), but it still feels serious when you're at my level (just getting into leading 5.6-5.7 leading). Nov 19, 2011
  5.6 PG13
  5.6 PG13
Another great lead climb similar to stitcher quits on the same slab. Definitely be comfortable climbing on the run out sections since once can easily be freaked out by them. Walk off is not nearly as bad as for stitcher quits. Mar 31, 2012
The Ruin-er
The Ruin-er   CA
five quick draws and a number 3 camalot and your set this route is too much fun, especially when you do this then sticher quits. the combo is a good time Jun 12, 2012
Todd Cook
Hawthorne, CA
Todd Cook   Hawthorne, CA
Be careful about the walk off, if it has rained recently (it's rare in JTree, but it does happen). I led this on 12/19/2012 and although the face was dry and creaky as usual, the backside walk off is in the shade and we found the descent slabs rather sopping wet. If the night had been really cold, it probably would have been icy. Now, of course, Donini's rule is, don't rap if there's a good walk off, however, here, watch the weather and those winter temps. 50 degrees may be the perfect temperature for rubber for slab climbing, however everything goes to hell with a wet descent at 32 degrees.

For what it's worth, I prefer throwing in Camalots: 3,4,5 behind the flake. And at the double dip, to the left, I put in a #2 yellow metolius, mostly for psychological protection. Of course the real run out is getting to the last bolt; looks like 30 feet, probably is only 20 feet, but if you fall, it's going to feel like 40 feet. Dec 23, 2012
Mikie Eaton
Grand Junction, CO
Mikie Eaton   Grand Junction, CO
If you plan on top roping, a 70m rope was still short unless your belaying from the top of the flake Jan 8, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Did this route for the umpteenth time yesterday, which was Thanksgiving and no-one was there! I'm going to re-assert my belief that this is a classic, almost perfect, tremendous fun and a rite of passage for any 5.6 leader at Joshua Tree.

BTW For pity's sake don't TR this route, what a travesty... Nov 29, 2013
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Should have checked this page instead of relying purely on Vogel's Classic climbs guide. Figured the book to be informative about a popular route like this, but I wound up noting the run-outs while already on route. Also, there are spinners, too. Ah, well. Feb 4, 2014
The Classics Guide does state for routes of Echo Rock:

Safety Advisory Be aware that these routes are not sport bolted and may be considered run out by today's standards.

But, an additional note of this in the Double Dip description will be added to the second edition. Feb 7, 2014
Lzpup Brewster
santee, ca
Lzpup Brewster   santee, ca
Totally fun, dropping a cam in the flake made be feel better, although i should have stuck it farther back since the rope ran over it once i clipped the bolt above. Anchors are wayyyy back.. bring a long rope if you are going to TR , used a 70m no problem (with long anchor). Apr 3, 2014
Lead this on 1/3/16 and found the flake between bolts 4 & 5 had degraded significantly. Popping can be hear when pressure is applied and significant movement can be seen as well. Jan 4, 2016
The Billy Goat
The Billy Goat   fontana,ca
Super fun route, place some pro on the flake on your way up or else it becomes bit run out. Jan 12, 2016
Reno, NV
Ancent   Reno, NV
Either #4 or #3 work for protecting the flake, which is nice before moving to the second bolt. A #0.3 protects before the 3rd bolt in a horizontal crack. Fun runout near the top! Cleaned a quicklink off the last bolt today; they were so close to the top anchors/walk off! Feb 14, 2016
peter p
peter p  
Always a fantastic climb, especially for a new leader :) the run outs are stimulating and the route keeps on giving and does not get boring.
A really fun 5.6. Oct 30, 2016
Royce Robertson
Joshua Tree, CA
Royce Robertson   Joshua Tree, CA
The flake is still sounding hollow which makes for an interesting lead, but doesn't seem worse than months ago. Anchors to the right above the 5.10b can be used to rap on a 70m. Be sure of your center point and watch the ends as you need to count on stretch to make it. Friends and I do laps on this ranging from 1:30 - 4 minutes. Great climb and one that I've made a second route ever for two friends new to climbing. Jan 27, 2017
Johnny Victor
Joshua Tree
Johnny Victor   Joshua Tree
All the hardware was updated to 1/2 SS in 2017 May 9, 2018
Bob Klaas
Long Beach, CA
Bob Klaas   Long Beach, CA
Such a good route! I opted to climb the flake off width style. Like Locker suggested, a #3 and/or #4 camelot under the flake will help protect against ground fall leading to the second bolt. I found the moves off the flake to be the most elusive. I opted for heading left after exiting the flake; then back right to the third bolt. All the moves are there. Just keep your eyes peeled for opportunity. The walk off is a sure bet. If you rap, a 70M may not make it to the ground. Watch your middle mark and tie knots in your tails before rapping! We came up about 10 feet short. 1 day ago