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Routes in Castle Rock - North Side

Bella Lugosi T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Belly Dancer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bride of Frankenstein TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimney Sweep T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Count Dracula T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diabetics T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diagnostics T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Finale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Half Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Junction Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Love at First Bite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Music Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Point Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
That Old Soft Shoe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Transylvania Twist T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Two Point Crack T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Don O'Kelley & Dave Davis, October 1970 FFA: (TR) Kevin Powell, 1977 FL: Craig Fry & Randy Vogel, January 1978
Page Views: 1,184 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

Description

Thin crimping right off the ground gains a crack where the difficulty eases and good protection can be found; higher, the top the crack peters out and a bolt [replaced 4/00 - ed.] is found to protect increasingly easier slab moves to the top.

  • The name is a play on Bela Lugosi - the star of the classic 1931 horror movie "Dracula".

Location

This climb lies 15' left of That Old Soft Shoe and is identified as a left-leaning thin crack starting about 15' off the ground.

Protection

1 bolt (3/8") and a selection of smaller wires/cams for the route with gear to 3" for the anchor.

Photos

C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Another option to consider is to bring a crashpad and just boulder up to the start of the crack. Feb 18, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
Definitely felt solid .11 through the crux - really thin. I don't think I would call it .12 though. At least by park standards. I didn't like the pro options at all and resorted to TR. It looked like you might be able to get a crappy wire down low about 10 feet up, at which point you are pulling down on thin sequential crimps. There was an option for a cam I found (while on TR) about 15 feet up. Really fun route, though! I managed to get it clean on TR after a few falls getting off the ground. I was thankful to be on TR. The route felt a little harder than Monaco in Indian Cove, but not a lot harder. Feb 18, 2013
Souljah
Northern NM
  5.11c/d PG13
Souljah   Northern NM
  5.11c/d PG13
One lead , and one solo. 88 and 89 respectively. At that time the crux felt C/D , the crack 7-ish , with some 9-ish friction off the top. Fun route. Jan 30, 2010
RTM
RTM  
Great route! Great rock, climbing on esthetic features. I thought the bouldery start was a little out of character for the climb though. Didn't think it was "R" as the landing was flat and the first good gear stance was barely 15ft up, but then again, I did happen to have a crash pad handy! The rest of the climb was fun 5.9ish liebacking and balancy face. Jun 8, 2009
Adam Kimmerly
  5.11c/d PG13
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.11c/d PG13
So, the attached Beta photo shows the line coming in from below and left (steeper) of the start of the crack (slabbier but way thin). I did this last year and came in from below and right. I'm curious how others have done this route. Apr 27, 2007
Curt Shannon
  5.12-
Curt Shannon  
  5.12-
I did this route last week on TR. The Vogel Select guide book now calls this 5.12, as holds on the lower part are breaking off on a regular basis. I do know that one nice hold near the bottom of the crack is now gone--it was there when I first did this thing in 1983 or so.

Regards,

Curt Shannon Jan 25, 2003
Randy  
While a bolt to protect the crux bottom may be welcome, it certainly is not necessary; as Alan points out, it is more of a bouldering type start....But, when Craig and I first lead this, we had some stacked and tied off thin pins for pro: They actually held me. Easily removed by hand afterwards. Jan 17, 2003