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Routes in Castle Rock - North Side

Bella Lugosi T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Belly Dancer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bride of Frankenstein TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimney Sweep T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Count Dracula T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diabetics T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diagnostics T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Finale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Half Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Junction Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Love at First Bite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Music Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Point Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
That Old Soft Shoe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Transylvania Twist T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Two Point Crack T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Dave Houser, Eve Uiga & Jan McCollum, May 1977
Page Views: 1,704 total, 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

Description

In the center of the Northwest face there are two slanting chimney/cracks that join at the top forming a sort of inverted vee. This climb lies roughly 25' left of the left chimney/crack and climbs a section of smooth face protected by six bolts [4 of which were replaced 4/00 - ed.].

Due to it's well protected nature and and quality stone this is a popular climb of this area, one that should not be missed.

Protection

6 bolts (3/8"), but you will need to take gear for the anchor (medium to large cams will work).

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10d
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10d
Very sustained excellent climbing. Will work your edging ability for sure. Rock quality was very good, as mentioned. This is a good lead for breaking into upper .10 low .11 in the park. The 6th bolt was pretty far out from the 5th and very mental and required a bit of traversing. I remember looking down about 8 feet below my feet to the last bolt with 5 feet to go to the 6th. Not extremely hard moves, just mental. Classic J-Tree. I led this and then set up TR on Bella Lugosi. Feb 18, 2013
RTM
RTM  
I found this route to be much harder than some of the other routes of similar grade on the wall. The first 55ft or so (imo) was non-stop .11- edging, then a tricky crux, and finally easing near the top. Although, it might have been easier if it weren't the middle of June! Jun 8, 2009
Tony Yeary
Arcadia, Califoria
Tony Yeary   Arcadia, Califoria  
I just did this route on 3-8. I'd done it several times before, but not in the last 20 years. It does seem to have gotten a bit smoother over the years. For me the crux is between the 4 and 5th bolt. The pull over the 1st bolt is thin and sharp but it's all there and just takes some grunting. I guess it's the style crux above that taxes my aging body!
5.11a....I don't know about that. I've done a lot of 11a's that seemed harder. 10d seems about right. Count Dracula, next door, seems harder, for me, for sure. They are both great routes and lots'o fun! Mar 10, 2009
This one has for sure got much slicker than it used to be. Oct 5, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10d
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10d
I see that it is in fact rated 5.10d here as opposed to the 5.10c in Randys old purple guide... GOOD!!!.. I had forgotten. Woody and I as he posted did this beauty today... I loved it just as much as when I did it before... It does seem a wee bit harder and the start slightly smoother... But doable obviously... Really cool, thin edging... Protected just right!!!... Not too many! Not too few!!!... Oct 5, 2005
Woody Stark  
 
Locker and I climbed this route today, first for me and third for him. Locker feels it's becoming a bit more difficult--getting greasy. For sure it's 10d and getting very close to 11a. Oct 4, 2005
Dynomight510
  5.10d
Dynomight510  
  5.10d
Great face climbing with well spaced bolts and I can attest that the falls are clean Sustained climbing with a good crux. I tightened my shoes for this one. Trad anchor and walk off to the right(West). If you decide to top rope this route, extend your anchor at least 25' to reduce rope drag and abrasion. Aug 20, 2003