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Routes in The Blob - West Face

Beginner's One T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Beginner's Twenty-six T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beginner's Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Berkeley Dyke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dialing For Ducats T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hobbit Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Safety In Numbers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Smear Tactics T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swagger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Steve Godshall, June 1971, FFA: John Long, 1975
Page Views: 8,602 total, 46/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jul 1, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Approach: Hobbit Roof is on the west face (backside) of the aptly-named Blob formation. Look for the obvious roof 20' off the deck.

This is a short route, but really fun! I'd give it 3 stars if it were longer. Thin and crimpy face climbing past one bolt (10d crux) lead up to the intimidating roof. The 10b roof protects very nicely with a #.75 Camalot. Get a good jam, take a deep breath, and fire it! Smooth sailing from here up the beautiful hand crack (#2 Camalot). Belay in crack.

Descent: scramble off climber's left.

Protection

1 bolt (3/8"), #.75,1,2 Camalots (1 ea.) Extra #1-#3 for anchor.
David Capo
  5.10d PG13
David Capo  
  5.10d PG13
loved this route. I've been working it for 3 years now and finally just decided to lead it. pulled it no problem. The bottom portion will chew up fingertips, but the roof is fine. It's a bit awkward, but as long as you can stick the knee jam you're solid. Dec 29, 2014
This was first climbed free before 1975. Maybe as early as 1972 because I remember still being in High School. Did it on-sight free solo and never thought anyone would ever bother repeating it.

Go figure.

JL Feb 25, 2012
Brian Chastain
  5.10b/c
Brian Chastain  
  5.10b/c
I agree with the down grading of this one. The face move at the bottom is really a one move wonder. I'm 5'7" and found it a semi-easy pull up on two crimps right of bolt, my friend that followed me is like 6' or better and thought it was even easier.

The roof was fun, I thought harder than the face but not bad. My hands take up a lot of volume in cracks and felt it wasn't actually hand jams until making the move to stand on the lip of the roof. Really could only get my hands in to the knuckles.

It was really like two little boulder problems and I thought it was really fun. Regardless of how I felt it was easier than the rating, I will be sure to tell all the kids, "Yeah, I did J-Tree 10d." lol Feb 20, 2012
J.B.  
I've failed to find this climb walking around the Blob 2 times now! Jun 8, 2011
Bob Gaines
  5.10d
Bob Gaines  
  5.10d
FA:(with aid) Steve Godshall, June, 1971
FFA: John Long, 1975. Feb 28, 2010
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10-
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10-
There is no way this route is any harder than .10a. The slab crux seemed similar in difficulty to other .10- slabs in JTree. The handcrack/roof is really just one move. A very fun route though, I enjoyed it. Feb 27, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10d
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10d
Crux is definitely the face at the bottom of the route. Very thin with an awkward "top out". I pulled through the roof with ease, as soon as I hit the perfect hand jam just above the lip.

The rest of the route is easy. Dec 1, 2009
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10d
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10d
Crux is by the bolt and just really a boulder problem. The roof protects perfectly with a BD #.75 or Orange Alien right under the lip. Sink a knee bar, hit a jam, kick a foot up and stand- just don't place a cam in your next hand jam Oct 26, 2009
Rafe
  5.10d
Rafe  
  5.10d
Roof would protect better with .5 c4, as .75 seemed to block my hand jam. Pulling a thin hands offset roof crack seems harder than .10b to me. Jun 17, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
Hobbit Roof on Youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=bULG65E… Jun 8, 2009
Shipp
laguna beach, ca
  5.10c/d
Shipp   laguna beach, ca
  5.10c/d
The crack above the roof is easier for those w/ just the right hand size. If you've got meaty paws - it's harder - 10b. Always lots of fun. Mar 4, 2009
Rob A  
Found the initial jams above the roof to be slightly too small for my hand. Figured out a way to do a big knee-bar and reach much higher for a more secure jam. Dec 8, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.10b/c
Bo Johnston  
  5.10b/c
I found the most obvious way to pull the crux was just to the right of the bolt. The roof was less impressive than I had thought it would be BUT the jams were killer! Feb 22, 2006
tony grice  
 
face move crux down low. 10a crack. cool short route for the 10 10s in a day quest Feb 13, 2006
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
I love pulling the roof. The rest is no big deal. Fun boulder problem. May 12, 2004
E. Ramos
Los Angeles, CA
E. Ramos   Los Angeles, CA
My hands sweat just thinking about it'! :) NOT RECOMMENDED (from a beginners standpoint) after climbing ALL day!!! Set up a 'Top Rope', do your best to stay toward the right (beneath the roof), don't extend your leg too far from the crack, JAM, LOCK, and PULL!!! Hats off to anyone that has bouldered this 'problem' Mar 28, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
At the crux face moves you can go left or right (my partner and I did it opposite ways) to make the moves. Both seem like 5.10d and are a matter of using tiny holds. The roof is 5.10a, and you can place gear at the lip while standing below, then run to the top safely without much ado. Fun end-of-the day climb, but not as cool as the pictures look. It is just too short to be classic. Jan 14, 2003