PRINT: Rock Climb EBGB's, Joshua Tree National Park

EBGB's

5.10d, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 174 votes
FA: Dave Houser, Mike Waugh, Jan McCollum & Nick Badyrka, April 1977
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Echo Rock > EBGB Block Area

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This route had a bit of a reputation back in the day and even now with higher numbers and sticky rubber it still commands respect.

Established ground-up by the prolific Dave Houser and a cast of talented locals, this thin face route epitomizes the Joshua Tree experience with a funky start leading to thin face and finishing with a memorable runout to the top.

The crux comes at the start in the form of an difficult mantle after which the route heads left around a blunt arete onto an undercut high-angled slab. Tenuous smears and edges past two closely spaced bolts are the crux of this section but steel yourself for the exciting finish with 5.8 smearing almost 20 feet out from the last bolt.

Location

On the outer (west) face of the EBGB Block Area.

Protection

5 bolts to a bolted anchor (all 3/8") which is located in the center of the block.

The rap anchor is on the south face at the lip.

This is a traditionally bolted face climb and not a sport route.

Video

EBGB's - Weekend Whipper

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

EBGB's in the late afternoon light.

ebgb's

EBGBs

EBGB's

EBGBs

Chris on EBGB's Photo by Brent Gonzales

EBGBs (circa 1983). Just passing the third bolt, which had taken a brutal fall recently, because the homemade DPH hanger was ripped open exposing nasty shards of aluminum.

The crux start to EBGB's.

Starting up EBGB's.

Andy figuring out how to get to the top

Mike Holley Finishing up EBGB's

photo taken by Thanh Dinh

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA

5.10d

Around 1983 or so a climber fell off the finishing holds and sheared through the eyehole of the old Houser hanger (homemade soft aluminium) resulting in an extra long fall.

Back in the old days you would see these homemade hangers on many classic routes stamped with Dave Houser's intitials (DPH). On certain bolts that saw a lot of falls you would see these hangers with elongated eyes where the force of repeated falls had stretched the soft metal like taffy! Jul 11, 2002

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

5.10d

After a most puzzling start, involving a belly roll, the climb turns into a memorable outing up a huge boulder stacked above the abyss.

For me is was essentially brain exploding smearing on a rippled steep face, with the occasional "whew" when clipping the bolts, of which there are very few.

Don't relax 'till you're standing on the top!

Justifiably, one of the ten 5.10s. Essential exposed face climbing.

The start was way tough. Jan 5, 2003

Anonymous Coward

just a question.....Why is the one climb called ebgbs it seems like such astrange name? -Steve Feb 10, 2003

Murf	[Hide Comment] Think "heebie-geebies" as in having the heebie-jeebies ( m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?… ). Now think about climbing shoe names in 1977. Feb 10, 2003

Brian Reynolds

There was a very famous punk club in New York City's East Village called CBGB's around the time this climb was put up -- bands that got there start there included Blondie, the Talking Heads, the Ramones, and the New York Dolls. For that matter, it's still around. I always figured that EBGB's was a play on that ... Feb 10, 2003

Randy
Lassitude 33

While the name EBGBs is a pun (a play on the expression Heebee Jeebees), that is NOT the orgin of the name. Interesting story, you see chboi JHAN gosn KFJirjak fdjkp fjoaj dfkjpo fljo motive didn't fit well! Nov 6, 2003

Mike Holley
Boone, NC

Amazingly Fun Route!! A Demanding and awkward full body mantle, involving not only strength but balance leads to fun thin and balancey face climbing! The Run outs are splendid with bolts right where you need them and devoid where you don't! Certainly an excellent J-Tree 5.10 face route! Dec 11, 2012

Tradiban

5.10d

A must do. I found the mantle interesting but not awkward. Crux right at the last bolt and the run-out pretty tame. Make the right decisions on direction at the top and it's a breeze. Nov 26, 2013

Richardo

The start is 10d for sure but the slab climbing is easy for grade in Jtree Jan 16, 2014

Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co

5.10d

Definitely commands respect. Bolts where you need them. Don't get blown off this beautiful, balancy climb. Dec 3, 2016

Francois Cote
Fredericton, NB

I climbed this route a week ago. In my opinion, the crux was right at the end, and not only because of the runout. I didn't find the mantle at the start to be bad at all but those smears right before pulling the lip gave me a hard time. That being said, I have not climbed much at J tree so I am not used to this style of friction climbing. Apr 1, 2017

Gumby boy king

I thought the mantle was hard, harder than the mantle on the first pitch of the vampire! The rest of it is low 5.10 face climbing with just enough holds and clipping stances to keep you on. The top can be exciting depending on the path you choose. Make sure you belay at the bolts directly above the route at the back of the boulder and not the rap anchors otherwise the follower could take a big swinging fall. Also if the follower falls at the mantle it could be a decent Penji/rope shredder. Oct 31, 2019

David Katz
Calabasas, CA

The bottom entry mantle which is the crux is easier to lead then follow., If you fail while following, you swing outward and need to be lowered.
Definitely plan your path carefully once your above the last bolt about to summit, many climbers have taken the whip from the last move. Jul 30, 2023

Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA

To better protect the follower, just pull the rope up through all the pieces and toss it back down. Nov 24, 2024