Mountain Project Logo

Routes in EBGB Block Area

Cheetah TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Control T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
EBGB's T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane's Getting Serious T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Life in the Fast Lane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sinner's Swing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tarzan T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Zondo's Perks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dave Houser, Mike Waugh, Jan McCollum & Nick Badyrka, April 1977
Page Views: 12,153 total, 65/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


79 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route had a bit of a reputation back in the day and even now with higher numbers and sticky rubber it still commands respect. Established ground-up by the prolific Dave Houser and a cast of talented locals this thin face route epitomizes the Joshua Tree experience with a funky start leading to thin face and finishing with a memorable runout to the top.

The crux comes at the start in the form of an difficult mantle after which the route heads left around a blunt arete onto an undercut high-angled slab. Tenuous smears and edges past two closely spaced bolts are the crux of this section but steel yourself for the exciting finish with 5.8 smearing 20' past the last bolt. Four stars out of five.

Location

On the outer (west) face of the EBGB Block Area.

Protection

5 bolts to a bolted anchor which is located in the center of the block. The rap anchor is on the south face at the lip. All bolts are 3/8".
I climbed this route a week ago. In my opinion, the crux was right at the end, and not only because of the runout. I didn't find the mantle at the start to be bad at all but those smears right before pulling the lip gave me a hard time. That being said, I have not climbed much at J tree so I am not used to this style of friction climbing. Apr 1, 2017
Ice4life
US
 
Ice4life   US
 
start is WTF head scratching and hole puckering please don't fall please don't fall. last bolt and anchors would suck to fall at.... Dec 14, 2016
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
  5.10d
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
  5.10d
Definitely commands respect. Bolts where you need them. Don't get blown off this beautiful, balancy climb. Dec 3, 2016
Got to the top and there was a fresh pile of crap. Someone really got the EBJBs HAHAHA! As for the climbing just crimp and do a pull up. Get on this rig :) Jan 6, 2015
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10d
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10d
Hibbitty Gibbitties just before the top of the climb for sure (last smear way above the bolt)! Dec 1, 2014
Richardo  
 
The start is 10d for sure but the slab climbing is easy for grade in Jtree Jan 16, 2014
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
A must do. I found the mantle interesting but not awkward. Crux right at the last bolt and the run-out pretty tame. Make the right decisions on direction at the top and it's a breeze. Nov 26, 2013
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Amazingly Fun Route!! A Demanding and awkward full body mantle, involving not only strength but balance leads to fun thin and balancey face climbing! The Run outs are splendid with bolts right where you need them and devoid where you don't! Certainly an excellent J-Tree .1o face route! Dec 11, 2012
RTM
RTM  
I have pics of Michael Reardon soloing this rig. Yipes!! I was scared on toprope! Mar 23, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
wasn't this soloed by that guy in return 2 sender? Mar 22, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
this is a trad climb? o.O Jun 27, 2008
Randy
 
Randy  
 
While the name EBGBs is a pun (a play on the expression Heebee Jeebees), that is NOT the orgin of the name. Interesting story, you see chboi JHAN gosn KFJirjak fdjkp fjoaj dfkjpo fljo motive didn't fit well! Nov 6, 2003
There was a very famous punk club in New York City's East Village called CBGB's around the time this climb was put up -- bands that got there start there included Blondie, the Talking Heads, the Ramones, and the New York Dolls. For that matter, it's still around. I always figured that EBGB's was a play on that ... Feb 10, 2003
Murf  
Think "heebie-geebies" as in having the heebie-jeebies ( m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?… ). Now think about climbing shoe names in 1977. Feb 10, 2003
just a question.....Why is the one climb called ebgbs it seems like such astrange name? -Steve Feb 10, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10d
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10d
After a most puzzling start, involving a belly roll, the climb turns into a memorable outing up a huge boulder stacked above the abyss.

For me is was essentially brain exploding smearing on a rippled steep face, with the occasional "whew" when clipping the bolts, of which there are very few.

Don't relax 'till you're standing on the top!

Justifiably, one of the ten 5.10s. Essential exposed face climbing.

The start was way tough. Jan 5, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
Around 1986 or so a climber fell off the finishing holds and sheared through the eyehole of the old Houser hanger (homemade soft aluminium) resulting in an extra long fall. Back in the old days you would see these homemade hangers on many classic routes stamped with Dave Houser's intitials (DPH). On certain bolts that saw a lot of falls you would see these hangers with elongated eyes where the force of repeated falls had stretched the metal like taffy! Jul 11, 2002