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Light Sabre
5.10b,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 128
votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, Toivo Kodas, Tony Yaniro, 1981
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Queen Valley Area
> Geology Tour Rd
> Virgin Islands…
> Star Wars Rock
Description
Light Sabre is one of the finest cracks for it's grade in Joshua Tree. It is long, sustained, continuous, and it will consume as much gear as you can throw at it. On the south side of Star Wars Rock are several right-slanting cracks. Light Sabre is the rightmost, with a small right-facing corner for the first half, a bulge, then a straight-in crack for the top. You can't walk by without being drawn in by its siren song. Expect a variety of jams, from locker fingers to off-hands, and a good solid pump.
Protection
Standard trad rack, with extras in the fingers/hands range; 2 bolt anchor/rap.
[Hide Photo] A wild crimpanzee spotted on the boulder problem section of the route
[Hide Photo] Is it really a crack climb!?!?;? Gumby yo ass 101
[Hide Photo] If only it was longer...
[Hide Photo] Robert MacKinnon pulls through the crux on Light Sabre. Photo: Mike Morley
Bend, OR
I placed medium nuts and 1/2 to #2 Camalots (a few of each size might be useful). The bottom corner will take as many 0.5 to 0.75 camalots as you want to throw at it.
We climbed it on a sunny day in November in the mid 60s and baked - bit of a solar oven effect - so save it for cool or windy days. Nov 14, 2005
Redacted Sucks!!
Joshua Tree
rancho cucamonga
Anchor bolts were good. Dec 27, 2013
Joshua Tree
Seattle, Wa.
Orange, CA
This area is great too you likely won't see anyone else! Nov 19, 2018
Los Angeles, CA