PRINT: Rock Climb Light Sabre, Joshua Tree National Park

Light Sabre

5.10b, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 182 votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, Toivo Kodas and Tony Yaniro, 1981
California > Joshua Tree NP > Queen Valley Area > Geology Tour Rd > Geology Tour Rd… > Virgin Islands… > Star Wars Rock

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Light Sabre is one of the finest cracks for it's grade in Joshua Tree. It is long, sustained, continuous, and it will consume as much gear as you can throw at it.

On the south side of Star Wars Rock are several right-slanting cracks. Light Sabre is the rightmost, with a small right-facing corner for the first half, a bulge, then a straight-in crack for the top.

You can't walk by without being drawn in by its siren song. Expect a variety of jams, from locker fingers to off-hands, and a good solid pump.

Protection

Standard trad rack, with extras in the fingers/hands range; 2 bolt anchor/rap.

The bolts are about 6 feet back from the slabs edge, consider bringing material to extend your anchor and show your rope some love if you top rope it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A wild crimpanzee spotted on the boulder problem section of the route

Is it really a crack climb!?!?;? Gumby yo ass 101

Weird Dave and friend.

Contemplating the crux on Light Sabre.

Robert MacKinnon pulls through the crux on Light Sabre. Photo: Mike Morley

If only it was longer...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steven Powers

this climb is a definatlly worth doing, the bottom section kicks ass. Sep 7, 2003

Mike Hack

The bottom stem/layback crack is very forgiving when it comes to gear selection. Fun section . . . imagine a full pitch! Crux is probably getting into or out of it. Good rest afterwards, and again also after the highstep/bulge section. Then easy jams to the top. Fun route! Mar 1, 2004

namascar

5.10b

Great route, that corner is awesome. It can be jammed, or chimney-ed. Both are equally fun. Exiting the corner is tricky. Then the boulder move up is the crux, I though. Nov 15, 2004

Adam Stackhouse

5.10b

Fun route with great pro. Good one for newbies to Jtree. Not really "long, sustained, continuous" but altogether satasfying. Cedric's is considerably harder to do and to protect, so don't let the Saber lull you into taking that one for granted. Oct 13, 2005

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.10b

Surprisingly physical climbing for a JTree 10b. The opening corner is awkward, but chimney moves allow hand free rests to place gear.The bulge crux above protects well, and presents its own awkward challenge as well.Then enjoyable hand jamming to the top.

I placed medium nuts and 1/2 to #2 Camalots (a few of each size might be useful). The bottom corner will take as many 0.5 to 0.75 camalots as you want to throw at it.

We climbed it on a sunny day in November in the mid 60s and baked - bit of a solar oven effect - so save it for cool or windy days. Nov 14, 2005

tony grice

super clean rock , grat fun , good gear. If you want to add some spice , start it from the pit. BAM!! some one should add another anchor for all the top-ropers. Feb 13, 2006

Russ Walling
Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…

Nice route, nice rock... kinda hot.... kinda awkward in a spot or two. This is the destination route for the formation for most parties. Sample some of the other routes while you are here, even if you TR them. Feb 18, 2007

Will S
Joshua Tree

5.10b

As of 2/18/07 the nuts on the anchor bolts are only only finger tight. If you're headed up there soon, do everyone a favor and take a wrench. Feb 19, 2007

armand rollice
rancho cucamonga

Fun climbing. Nice place to come to when it's cold. The crux for me is the move at the top. Takes good gear. Feb 27, 2008

Tradiban

5.10b

Solid three stars, the bottom corner is the crux, keep the feet our right and your back against the left wall, coming out of the rest looks hard but isn't...commit.

Anchor bolts were good. Dec 27, 2013

susan peplow
Joshua Tree

Anchors are less than ideal. Both spinners on old SMC hangers and two very short chain-links. As Will suggested bring a wrench and tighten up. Better yet, they should be replaced and will go on such a list. In the meantime, please don't pull straight up while setting up to rap and be careful. Apr 20, 2014

Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA

5.10a

the walk off took about 2 full minutes. which I discovered because others were on the 5.9, so I decided to not rap on the shared anchor. Jan 5, 2015

G Frisby
Orange, CA

TR'd (I'm Old) this on Nov 12, 2017. As Susan mentioned in 2014, the anchors are way past their prime. There is a good crack climber's right of the anchor, which we used to back up the aging anchors with a few pieces. Nov 13, 2017

Matt Hagny

5.10b

The first bit of the route is sustained and pumpy, then you get a nice rest before dealing with a tricky, balancey move. Then some milder crack takes you to the top. Very aesthetic. Nov 20, 2017

master gumby

Kinda a confusing spot for anchor bolts IMO, but the climbing was dope a cool corner that you can climb as a crack or other wizardy to a cool little boulder problem then an easy finish to the top. Would be 4 stars if the top wasn't so easy. Also this route is like 60 feet not 100.

This area is great too you likely won't see anyone else! Nov 19, 2018

Nicole Yu
Sandpoint, ID

One of my favorate climbs in Joshua Tree. Upper crux is insecure finger move. Can be well protected with BD .75. Feb 23, 2020

Zachary Green
Los Angeles, CA

Started this route in the chasm below the main dihedral near the beginning of Cedric's. Shakily told my partner to watch me as I was about to pull onto the real starting ledge when a head appeared above me letting me know I was doing it wrong. This variation went though and added about 15' of exciting 5.10ish face. Rap anchors could use some replacing Feb 8, 2021

Andrew Kelleher
Durango, CO

I feel like this really starts at the section below the ledge. Man, getting on that ledge is really tough! I mean, it might go a little harder than .10b but it's worth the struggle and maybe a couple little (clean) falls. Mental crux for me was coming out of the crack onto the face. Wow that was cool. Jan 17, 2022