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Light Sabre

5.10b, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 3.2 from 106 votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, Toivo Kodas, Tony Yaniro, 1981
California > Joshua Tree NP > Geology Tour Rd > Virgin Islands… > Star Wars Rock

Description

Light Sabre is one of the finest cracks for it's grade in Joshua Tree. It is long, sustained, continuous, and it will consume as much gear as you can throw at it. On the south side of Star Wars Rock are several right-slanting cracks. Light Sabre is the rightmost, with a small right-facing corner for the first half, a bulge, then a straight-in crack for the top. You can't walk by without being drawn in by its siren song. Expect a variety of jams, from locker fingers to off-hands, and a good solid pump.

Protection

Standard trad rack, with extras in the fingers/hands range; 2 bolt anchor/rap.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Contemplating the crux on Light Sabre.
[Hide Photo] Contemplating the crux on Light Sabre.
Is it really a crack climb!?!?;? Gumby yo ass 101
[Hide Photo] Is it really a crack climb!?!?;? Gumby yo ass 101
Weird Dave and friend.
[Hide Photo] Weird Dave and friend.
A wild crimpanzee spotted on the boulder problem section of the route
[Hide Photo] A wild crimpanzee spotted on the boulder problem section of the route
If only it was longer...
[Hide Photo] If only it was longer...
Mike Morley perched to take a few photos on the route. Photo: Robert MacKinnon.
[Hide Photo] Mike Morley perched to take a few photos on the route. Photo: Robert MacKinnon.
Robert MacKinnon pulls through the crux on Light Sabre.  Photo: Mike Morley
[Hide Photo] Robert MacKinnon pulls through the crux on Light Sabre. Photo: Mike Morley

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] this climb is a definatlly worth doing, the bottom section kicks ass. Sep 7, 2003
[Hide Comment] The bottom stem/layback crack is very forgiving when it comes to gear selection. Fun section . . . imagine a full pitch! Crux is probably getting into or out of it. Good rest afterwards, and again also after the highstep/bulge section. Then easy jams to the top. Fun route! Mar 1, 2004
namascar
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Great route, that corner is awesome. It can be jammed, or chimney-ed. Both are equally fun. Exiting the corner is tricky. Then the boulder move up is the crux, I though. Nov 15, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Fun route with great pro. Good one for newbies to Jtree. Not really "long, sustained, continuous" but altogether satasfying. Cedric's is considerably harder to do and to protect, so don't let the Saber lull you into taking that one for granted. Oct 13, 2005
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Surprisingly physical climbing for a JTree 10b. The opening corner is awkward, but chimney moves allow hand free rests to place gear.The bulge crux above protects well, and presents its own awkward challenge as well.Then enjoyable hand jamming to the top.

I placed medium nuts and 1/2 to #2 Camalots (a few of each size might be useful). The bottom corner will take as many 0.5 to 0.75 camalots as you want to throw at it.

We climbed it on a sunny day in November in the mid 60s and baked - bit of a solar oven effect - so save it for cool or windy days. Nov 14, 2005
[Hide Comment] super clean rock , grat fun , good gear. If you want to add some spice , start it from the pit. BAM!! some one should add another anchor for all the top-ropers. Feb 13, 2006
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
 
[Hide Comment] Nice route, nice rock... kinda hot.... kinda awkward in a spot or two. This is the destination route for the formation for most parties. Sample some of the other routes while you are here, even if you TR them. Feb 18, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] As of 2/18/07 the nuts on the anchor bolts are only only finger tight. If you're headed up there soon, do everyone a favor and take a wrench. Feb 19, 2007
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
[Hide Comment] Fun climbing. Nice place to come to when it's cold. The crux for me is the move at the top. Takes good gear. Feb 27, 2008
Tradiban
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Solid three stars, the bottom corner is the crux, keep the feet our right and your back against the left wall, coming out of the rest looks hard but isn't...commit.

Anchor bolts were good. Dec 27, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
[Hide Comment] Anchors are less than ideal. Both spinners on old SMC hangers and two very short chain-links. As Will suggested bring a wrench and tighten up. Better yet, they should be replaced and will go on such a list. In the meantime, please don't pull straight up while setting up to rap and be careful. Apr 20, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] the walk off took about 2 full minutes. which I discovered because others were on the 5.9, so I decided to not rap on the shared anchor. Jan 5, 2015
G Frisby
Orange, CA
[Hide Comment] TR'd (I'm Old) this on Nov 12, 2017. As Susan mentioned in 2014, the anchors are way past their prime. There is a good crack climber's right of the anchor, which we used to back up the aging anchors with a few pieces. Nov 13, 2017
Matt Hagny
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] The first bit of the route is sustained and pumpy, then you get a nice rest before dealing with a tricky, balancey move. Then some milder crack takes you to the top. Very aesthetic. Nov 20, 2017
[Hide Comment] Kinda a confusing spot for anchor bolts IMO, but the climbing was dope a cool corner that you can climb as a crack or other wizardy to a cool little boulder problem then an easy finish to the top. Would be 4 stars if the top wasn't so easy. Also this route is like 60 feet not 100.

This area is great too you likely won't see anyone else! Nov 19, 2018