Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Houser and Jan McCollum, December 1978
Page Views: 747 total · 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 17, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin this route by climbing to a high first bolt and then continue up on grainy friction past three more bolts, the last one being above the dike. Bolted anchor/rap on top.

A fun climb that would be even better were the rock higher quality. Still, not a bad route and a recommended climb if in the area and wanting to do a slab route.

Location

From the Split Rocks parking area follow the climber's trail west, aiming for a large formation with a diagonal dike running across it.

The route lies on the far right side of the formation and is the first climb encountered when approaching the wall. To the left is The Woodshed, an obvious vertical crack starting with face moves.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")

 The bolted anchor/rappel is currently missing (October 2018)

Photos

I thought this climb was PG/R. You have to make the 10a move before you clip the second bolt. Mar 24, 2003
Yep! it's an R for sure. Jul 24, 2003
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b R
Sketchy at the begining and a bit sustained. Multicruxed and arduous this climb saw my ascent simply based on some chick's admiration of the name. Thanks Dave and Jan. Jun 11, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10a
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10a
I agree this is a route worth doing. Fun, easy to locate, short distance from parking area, on the way to some great climbing (Isles in the Sky area), and other moderate to hard climbing in the canyon area itself. Some real Jtree friction type moves that will have you wishing you were a bug....... Jun 13, 2004
RTM
RTM  
Stylish moves for a friction route, climbing a face with just enough shallow dishes to make it possible. The crux runout seemed a bit forced though, as you're hanging out at a jug with the next bolt just out of reach. Anybody know what the 3-bolt route to the right of this one is? Had a bouldery friction crux low down in dark rock(11+ish)? Oct 22, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
The route to the right is called Mule Days (5.11a), FA by Bob Gaines. 3 bolts down low to join GCDT for it's last bolt. Oct 22, 2009
Roy Suggett
  5.9+ R
Roy Suggett  
  5.9+ R
One day long ago I blew the move off that big knob and crux. Big fall with a dike to hit half way through. Make sure your belay is good! Mar 26, 2013
Joe Brophy
San Diego
Joe Brophy   San Diego
FYI, 2 bolt anchor is missing with just the hole and bolt sleeve left in hole. No way to belay your second except to walk back a ways and just sit down and hold on. Oct 28, 2018 · Temporary Report
David Lyons
Forest Falls, CA
David Lyons   Forest Falls, CA
without the anchors, I could go back ~20' from the edge and plug in a few small cams - save a couple .5's for that... 1 day ago · Temporary Report