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Hot Rocks

5.11c, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 224 votes
FA: John Long, Richard Harrison and Ging Gingrich, February 1973 FFA: John Bachar, 1979
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Outback > Rock Hudson
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

There are two different starts to this route - 1) climb the seam directly with no protection, or 2) climb past a bolt just right of the seam. 

Thin and delicate slab moves from the ground gain a stance below the start of the crack where you can get some gear. Enter the crack and lieback/jam up a thin crack (crux) to a horizontal, after which the crack widens and enjoyable jamming past a steep bulge leads to the top. 

Descend by walking down the south shoulder (climber's right).

A true Josh classic with varied, interesting moves up a clean face. 

Location

Hot Rocks is the masterpiece of this wall and climbs a line just right of center identified as a seam that higher widens and forms a crack. 

Just left of this route is the thin and technical Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) while further left is the widening crack of Looney Tunes.

Protection

1 bolt (1/2"), gear to 3 inches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Casey McTaggart sending Hot Rocks
[Hide Photo] Casey McTaggart sending Hot Rocks
Tyler belaying Chris on a sunset lead. Rad! December 15, 2019
[Hide Photo] Tyler belaying Chris on a sunset lead. Rad! December 15, 2019
Pulling the Crux in style ;)
[Hide Photo] Pulling the Crux in style ;)
Pulling the move after the crux
[Hide Photo] Pulling the move after the crux
zack d.  taken by my mommy
[Hide Photo] zack d. taken by my mommy
Hot Rocks<br>
[Hide Photo] Hot Rocks
"Hot Rocks" climbs the beautiful crack, photo center.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Hot Rocks" climbs the beautiful crack, photo center. Photo by Blitzo.
Lucas Crushing Hot Rocks
[Hide Photo] Lucas Crushing Hot Rocks
The starting moves at the bolt
[Hide Photo] The starting moves at the bolt
Jubes on Hot Rocks. 25 Apr 2021.
[Hide Photo] Jubes on Hot Rocks. 25 Apr 2021.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] The route seems to be on the easier side of 5.11, not the harder side, the crux being a switching sides layback or a thin fingerlock on a bad foothold (2 hard moves total). I TR'd it though, so maybe the ease of that brought the route down. As for soloing it, it seemed to me that the move was more 'low percentage' than it was hard, and the trick was simply not to slip off on the bad foot. Which is to say... I wouldn't solo it. Of course, I'm not a local and J-tree friction is not automatically programmed for me. Really fun route! Once the crux is over, the climb goes to a well-protected 5.10a that is still super-fun. Jan 7, 2004
Josh Beck
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] If you're taller the crux is certainly easier. I don't know off the top of my head how tall Randy or John are. On a gear note, it's easy to put gear where you need to put your feet on this route.

One of the best routes I've done in the park, ranks w/ O'Kelley Crack, Left Ski Track, Illusion Dweller, Clean and Jerk and the like for me. Jan 8, 2004
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
[Hide Comment] Hotrocks is such a beautiful line and one of the best that I have done in Joshua Tree. The crux move after the bolt was very hard, I took several falls on a #4 TCu (Metolius). After pulling the crux at the bottom the climb was still a challenge. What a memorable day it was. Thank you Jeff for the belay and catching me when I fell. Thank you Sean for taking photos and Lee for the spot at the start! And you guys that solo this route, hats off to you! Armando Apr 7, 2008
[Hide Comment] Incredible route. Some care is required on this one to ensure that you have gear at the crux. On my first lead I recall missing some placements that would have made it much safer. Nov 9, 2008
John Long
Venice
[Hide Comment] We first did this route on aid to learn how to place copperheads. A few years later, Bachar and I did the first free ascent on a TR, and despite it being quite grainy at the time, the moves were so suave we lapped it several times. Later that day, Bachar went over and soloed it. It's just the one body length down low but at that time climbing this cordless was a revolution. Jul 21, 2011
pkeds
Broomfield, CO
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment]
  • *Gear betas**
grey DMM offset nut just below the crux is super easy to place and super bomber. Dec 23, 2014
npaolini
Vancouver, BC
 
[Hide Comment] Tricky gear in the finger crack, not a "plug in and gun for the hand jams" kind of scenario. I spent a bit of time fiddling before I found pro I was comfortable with. Jan 30, 2018
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
[Hide Comment] A bomber gold DMM offset slots in a few inches below the horizontal and protects all the hard climbing. Depending on how you climb it you have a TR for the crux moves. Dec 17, 2019
[Hide Comment] Another Joshua Tree "Classic" that is worth doing, but far from mega classic status. Mar 3, 2020
telepaulk
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] mega classic anywhere! this thing is good, hard, and a little painful on the fingers. do it! Feb 15, 2021