Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Jones, November 1975
Page Views: 2,905 total · 14/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 15, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

This unique route is found on the west face of the wall with The Exorcist and Diamond Dogs, but much farther right where the wall is slabby.

Climb up the chimney and after a short distance dive deeper into the depths of the chimney as it becomes a totally enclosed slot. Continue up this to the top and then exit onto a ledge to finish. The descent is to the climber's left.

Pro may be possible on this route, but this is probably better and easier to solo as the climbing is fairly secure and provides good practice for other wide cracks.

Protection

Gear to 4"

Photos

This is a great climb. At 2/3rds height you turn from facing toward the slab all the way around to use holds on the roof/back of the chimney to make progress easy. Aug 8, 2002
The setting is more memorable than the climbing. There's a great start from deep in a slot behind a large boulder, and if you start to get gripped on lead, you can simply straighten your arms and legs a little and wedge yourself against the far side of the slot. Definitely worth doing. 2 stars out of 5. Mar 13, 2003
Classick!!! Killer runout to the top of the cave with intense claustrophobic chimneying with a sweet traverse to a great overhang. Love this climb! Oct 1, 2004
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
  5.6 X
Isaac T.   Oceanside, CA
  5.6 X
There is no way that this climb just gets an R, there is no pro on either walls till you get to the overhang 40+ feet up. Of course falling would be pretty hard but still not impossible and if you did the consequences would be dire... Oct 12, 2008
Eric Holden
Temecula, CA
  5.6 R
Eric Holden   Temecula, CA
  5.6 R
Great climb. Did this on Top rope as the non-protection, and my family don't mix so well. Mar 4, 2013