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Routes in East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)

Aero Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Aero TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Buenos Aires T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Casual T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chesire For President T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doin' Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exorcist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hemroidic Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hueco Wall T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaws T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Love Goddess S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Military Industrial Complex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerd's Rump T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurn's Romp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Que? T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rings Around Uranus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Search for Klingons T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smurf's Up T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
That T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Bolts Closer To Divorce T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trouble With Tribbles, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown 2 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wacko Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
What T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dick Richardson and Pat Cooper, 1974
Page Views: 995 total, 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 15, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located on the backside (west face) of the second rock west of the parking area. This is found on the far right side where the rock is very slabby.

This is the first route right of a deep chimney system (Jaws), and climbs well-protected slabby face past three bolts. Higher as the angle eases a runout on easier terrain leads to top. Rap off anchors or continue to the top and walk-off to climber's left.

A fun route, probably the best slab route on this portion of the rock, which isn't saying a whole lot.

Protection

3 bolts (3/8"), 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
One of the 1st routes I did in the monument. If the opening moves were higher-up , this line would probably be rated 10a. I think it was 5.8 when we did it...Buenos Aires was a 9. Feb 2, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
There is now a two bolt rap anchor after the slab eases off. This can also be used to top-rope this climb, as well as Doin' Life and Search for Klingons, but takes about 20' of runners to remove the rope drag. Apr 27, 2008
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Yes, this is anything but "well protected." At one logical rest area where one should be able to clip a bolt, one instead needs to make a dicey step across to a way illogical bolt placement. I don't know what the FA party was thinking, but that aside the climbing is good, but be prepared for some runout. Apr 7, 2008
I agree... This one is bordering on an "R" rating. There's a tricky little step-across move to the left right before the third bolt that would send you for a really nasty tumble. Dec 16, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.9 R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9 R
I remember this route feeling a bit on the runout side. Nov 28, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
The slippery start has the hardest move, right next to a bolt. The bolts are well (but logically) spaced, however, the climbing in between is reasonable. The fear-factor increases as one approaches the second bolt, after clipping one can relax, then the steeper section provides the best moves on this climb.

Top-roping is not a good idea. Jan 24, 2005