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Kibbles and Bolts

5.10b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
FA: Jay Goodwin and Captain Noxious, March 1990
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Cam… > Condor Rock

Description

Start 50' down and left from The Falcon, a striking thin crack/corner system. Climb up a ramp to a vertical crack, then cut right to an arete passing four bolts. Bolted anchor/rap on top.

This route is better than it's neighbor to the left due to the arete section up high, but both are fun and easily done as they both share the same anchor.

When in the area make sure to check out some of the fine crack routes nearby- The Falcon and The Condor are both high quality lines and The Wonder Bluffs formation is 10-15 minutes away and has many crack lines to choose from.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 1.5", bolted anchor/rap

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Kibbles and Bolts".<br>
Photo By Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Kibbles and Bolts". Photo By Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I think this is the same route Vogel calls "Toxic Poodle" no? If so, 2 stars. The arete makes it cool. Jan 16, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Yes, this route is named "Toxic Poodle" in the 1992 Vogel guide. May 19, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I thought that this was a great route with tons of character, interesting (and sometimes sketchy) moves and an intimidating position. Totally worth doing. Feb 1, 2009
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
[Hide Comment] Great climb! Begins with a strenuous layback move above the wedge shaped start boulder and shifts right onto the face and arete. Finishes in the corner just right of the arete. Feb 1, 2009
Matt Hagny
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This route has the same low crux as Toxic Avenger. Nothing higher to boost the grade. So how is it more than 10a? Apr 16, 2018