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Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimping Lessons S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mamunia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Age Crazy T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Middle Age Savage T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Solid Gold T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Wilson and Herb Laeger, November 1976
Page Views: 2,490 total, 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is on the northeast face of the South Astro Dome and lies in the center of the face atop a high point of stacked blocks. For reference Solid Gold lies 50' right in an obvious gold-colored streak. This climb climbs up and right to reach an obvious corner system high on the face.

P1) Starting from the stacked blocks climb smooth, delicate friction up and right past five bolts to a belay in thin cracks. As an alternative it is possible to move right 15' to use a bolted anchor on Shooting Star (5.11a R/X).

P2) From the belay climb the cracks/corner system to the top. There have been numerous birds in this area, so don't be surprised if the crack is filled with more than chalk.

To descend rap the route Shooting Star with a single 60 meter in two raps.

A fairly good route, although for the grade Breakfast of Champions is superior and cleaner. Still, not a bad route and one worth doing at least once.

Protection

5 bolts (3/8"), gear to 3"

Photos

somillionaire Viradia
Los Angeles, California
  5.9+
somillionaire Viradia   Los Angeles, California
  5.9+
After bailing on solid gold because I realized I wasnt good enough to edge climb at that level, my friend and I looked for an easier climb and decided to go up My Laundry. I didnt realize My Laundry was also edge climbing until I got on it and its an amazing lesson in how to do it and trust your feet even when youre well past the bolt. It seems like a decent prep for solid gold when in the area because its not greasy, although Im not knowledge on that type of climbing. The second pitch is also hugely fun, dihedral, crack climbing that is burly but juggy. And the topout on Astrodome is amazing. It was a classic in my book Apr 13, 2014
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Great climb, bird debris where not an issue. In the green Vogel guide it's not clear that this joins up with the last part of Solid Gold on the first pitch, if you do a sweet mantle on a jug to the last bolt you did it right. Apr 21, 2013
Cornelius Haupt
Dresden, Germany
Cornelius Haupt   Dresden, Germany
October 2010 we did not do the 2nd My Laundry pitch because it was virtually covered with bird droppings, the cracks stuffed with feathers. Solid Gold was a clean alternative. Oct 24, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
From the ASCA website: "First three protection bolts replaced. Fourth protection bolt is now a two-bolt anchor for the route to the right. A bomber anchor is at the top of the crack on the second pitch, and is the rap route for Solid Gold as well. Note that Bolt Heaven, which starts on My Laundry, has now had every bolt broken off by body weight or less, apparently due to severe fracturing of the 1/4" bolts in initial placement. ASCA 2/02" Jan 11, 2003