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Routes in Dodo Buttress

Dodo's Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herbie's Hideaway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lucky Lady T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Out with Your Cock Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett and Alan Roberts, 1983
Page Views: 1,050 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Easiest to approach as for Loose Lady via the marked trail leading from the Real Hidden Valley parking area. Tunnel up and scramble past the base of Houser Buttress to reach this smaller, similar style rock which lies about 75' right of Loose Lady.

Start by climbing up a gully along the left margin of the wall (pro possible here) for about 25' and traverse right onto the face to reach the first bolt. Make crux moves past the 1st bolt and continue up past one more bolt to the anchors; rap the route with a single rope.

This is a fun route worth doing when in the area or waiting for the ever popular Loose Lady.

Protection

2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8"), optional pro to 3"

Photos

Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
My partner did a direct start at the bottom of the gully. Pretty scary; I was glad to second that one. It is pretty spicy at stiff at 5.8 that way. Feb 11, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Small nuts, tricams, hexes, cams............ all would work fine in the crack at the start of the climb. Long sling would help in avoiding "Rope drag". Nice stance gives plenty of safty and time to set pro accordingly. One good piece is the ticket so don't go loading up your harness or pro sling looking like you are ready to do a big wall. Unless you want the extra weight and a "snapshot of a fool" photo op. Both bolts are good as are the two rap anchors. The view in the late afternoon light is super nice. Sep 29, 2003