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Gray Cell Green
5.10d,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 45
votes
FA: Don Wilson and Todd Gordon, February 1992
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Cyclops Rock
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that: 1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor. 2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
Boulder up the start until possible to clip the first bolt then work your way left to clip a second bolt. Good footwork will make the somewhat crimpy moves to the third bolt easier. Climb past a final bolt and finish up with easier moves via a short hand crack onto a ledge with anchors.
A short route that is decent enough worth doing if in the area. Originally there was another fixed pin before the first bolt - it may be possible to get a small (0.5")piece in if necessary. Additionally one can get a 2.5" piece in the crack section at the top if needed.
The hard moves and the bulk of the climbing are well protected and it has an anchor- so I'd call it a sport route. Two stars out of five.
Location
On the southwest face of Cyclops Rock about 40' right of the start for The Official Route of the 1984 Olympics. The climb is easily identified as starting out of a recessed area of rock that overhangs slightly.
[Hide Photo] ATS checking out the middle moves of Gray Cell Green (5.10d). The route follows the left leaning crack 2 feet beneath my feet for about 6 ft, then climbs up to the second left slanting crack above…
[Hide Comment] 5/16 bolts have been replaced with 5 piece 3/8's rawls and the piton is gone with a bolt in place there are also three bolts on the anchor now its safe for the bolt clipping sport climbing gym rats.
Oct 1, 2002
[Hide Comment] That's about what it felt like to me... I don't frequently onsight 5.11 and this one came relatively easily. Then several weeks later, feeling stronger, I had a very poor showing on Jane's Addiction :)
Jan 8, 2003
[Hide Comment] I'd give this a 11a rating mainly for the first bolt was a committing clip. If you stick clip the first bolt and continue on then I can see it being 10d or softer since your taking away the first major pump of the route.
Feb 17, 2015
[Hide Comment] 3rd bolt is in a wierd clipping stance for the route. Kinda reachy for folks under 5'10". Otherwise a fun enough route to warm up on.
Nov 25, 2019
Avg: 2.4 from 45
votes
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
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