Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Damn Jam

5.6, Trad, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 45 votes
FA: Dick Webster, Bill Briggs and Woody Stark, February 1967
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Hidden Valley C… > Wall > Wall - Right Side
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Tackle the obvious chimney, which is wide enough to allow upward progress but not so narrow as to make it overly difficult. Protection is found near the back of the crack, so if placing gear take some runners to keep the rope drag in check.

This is a good introductory style chimney to get comfortable on wider cracks as it affords good protection and elementary wide crack skills. 

  • The descent is found about 100 feet to the right of this climb and involves downclimbing and tunneling under some blocks.

Location

The rightmost portion of The Wall (where Chalk Up Another One is located) is split into two by a steep chimney system - this is the route.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Wall (Right Side) with a climber on Chalk Up Another One (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] The Wall (Right Side) with a climber on Chalk Up Another One (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
Enjoying the view while my partner is 3/4 up
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the view while my partner is 3/4 up
Sean T. Near the top of the climb.
[Hide Photo] Sean T. Near the top of the climb.
Dam Jam
[Hide Photo] Dam Jam

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Woody Stark
  5.7
[Hide Comment] We should have rated this 5.7. This route could be used as a novice leader's "starter" jam/chimney. Awkward here and there, a little thought needs to be applied for pro placement, and a bit thin at the top. Jun 8, 2004
Woody Stark
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I climbed this again today after many years; I followed using it for leading experience for a moderately easy jam crack route. It's great for a novice leader. Feb 5, 2005
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
5.7
[Hide Comment] Soloed this back in January. This is an old school 5.6 and is a real eye opener! Good route for developing chimney technique. Don Mar 15, 2008
Tommy G.
Fort Polk, LA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I love the Damn Jam! Make your friends climb it.

You can climb it safely with gear to BD#3. The anchor requires a 2 and a 3 (or a couple 3's). A BD#1 fits perfectly in a slot right before the top "runout." It's not really runout, but without something in that slot it would be more exciting. Feb 10, 2012
Sean
Oak Park, CA
[Hide Comment] more so a wide climb of many stems til top. finishing above last solid pro might feel heady for some. summit topout seems more than 100' tall, higher than top of I-Rock far across, much higher than the lower shoulder where Chalk Up Another One tops out. walking off to pass by the latter involves easy moves but high exposure. stay roped up for that part if need Dec 8, 2019
Jaime Camp Beebe
San Diego, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Physical, flaring, sort of runout… what more can a climber ask for when getting sandbagged by a friend.
I ended up running out the upper half, not finding placements and having to dive deep to place a .75, leaving my partner cussing trying to retrieve it.
Save your BD #1 for the last placement in a pocket. You’ll really want it before the exposed undercling traverse topout,.

Also, the downclimb is…
well….you’ll see. Stay safe.
10/10, would do again. Nov 21, 2023