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Routes in Condor Rock

Baconator, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beltsander, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Condor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Falcon, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kibbles and Bolts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nicole Kidman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Toxic Avenger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 740 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 12, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Across the road from King Otto's Castle lies this north-facing crag which several good routes to choose from. This climb on the central portion of the wall and climbs thin crack in a large right-facing corner.

Jam the thin vertical crack passing a slight bulge two-thirds of the way up (crux). Continue up past easier terrain to a notch and belay. Walk off to the climber's right.

A great crack route that is as good as Right V Crack, but far less crowded and less greasy with a slightly longer approach. One of many lesser known gems of Indian Cove.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b
A really tenuous line for me. I felt like I could have fallen from just about anywhere on the route (and did fall from the opening finger crack... tricky feet!). It's all there though if you can trust it. There are some obvious spots that take bomber gear, but if you want to sew it up more than that (I did), then the gear can definitely get tricky. 2 days ago
Ryan Bracci
San Juan Capistrano, CA
  5.10b
Ryan Bracci   San Juan Capistrano, CA
  5.10b
I thought the gear was tricky. I recommend a few small offsets and some offset nuts to help in those flaring spots. Didn't use anything bigger than a #2. The slung boulder up top looks a bit sun-worn and tatty as of Feb. 2017. Feb 13, 2017
Richard Shore
  5.10b
Richard Shore  
  5.10b
Strenuous to place gear, and you have to commit a few moves up into the vertical corner before getting your first piece. I never felt secure on this one. Mostly thin fingers and tips for my sausages, while stemming and/or liebacking. Biggest piece I used was a .5 camalot. There is a large boulder above that can be slung for an anchor, also equipped with fixed rap slings/rings. Jan 3, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Fun, secure, and easy to protect. Perhaps a little easier than most of the 10b's I did in Indian Cove, but admittedly a little strenuous. A good 10b lead for those pushing into the grade. Jan 16, 2005