PRINT: Rock Climb X-Rated Tits, Joshua Tree National Park

X-Rated Tits

5.9, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 30 votes
FA: Matt Cox, Randy Vogel and Shawn Curtis, 1976
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Barker Dam Area > Lakeside Rock > Lakeside Rock - W Face

Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

nps.gov/jotr/parknews/dam_v…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Two bolts lead up the groove into left-slanting cracks on a dike. When the dike makes a sharp turn to the right step left to a bolted anchor/rap station.

Another memorable climb with a memorable name.

Location

In the center of the wall is a prominent roof that lies low on the formation. This climb starts just right of where the roof ends at a right-slanting groove.

Protection

2 bolts (3/8"), gear to 2 inches, bolted anchor/rap

About the name...

As one might guess, there is a story behind the name... The summer before this route was established, Matt Cox (then about 15 or 16 years old) had gone with a few other climbers to the small local movie theater (the "Rustic Theater") in Idyllwild on for a bit of Saturday night diversion. The movie was rated "R" and had a scene in it where a woman's breasts were shown. Matt, overcome by the sight, exclaimed in quite a loud voice "Wow! Those are the first R rated tits I've ever seen." The audience laughed, as did local climbers for weeks afterwards. The route name was a small tribute to a humorous moment. - Randy Vogel

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"X-Rated Tits". Photo by Blitzo.

Looking up at the two bolts starting X-Rated Tits

X-Rated Tits

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Randy
Lassitude 33

Did this recently again and not a bad climb. 2 of 5 stars. Feb 6, 2003

Woody Stark

Ladies that I know have a firm opinion on this route(not what you might think). There is an inverse relationship between height and rating here. If I was an inch shorter, this sucker would be a 10B. Ergo, as I'm getting older and shorter, I dread climbing this route. Jun 12, 2003

Karen Bohl
Prescott

5.10b

Well, this is the rating I would give this climb. It is definately not easy if you are under 5'4. In order to pull off the crux, I had to go out on thin face and do some very delicate moves. I did not like this climb. Jan 22, 2005

susan peplow
Joshua Tree

5.9

Old Vogel guide indicates only 1 bolt. There are actually two then the anchors that share with "Eye for an eye, route for a route". Start of route can be protected easily with a 3.5" cam 1.5" cam, or stoppers a bit further up until you reach the first bolt. Getting past the 2nd bolt seemed a bit reachy for me and definitely required me to use my feet to gain the height.

I went slightly left towards the tooth and wish I had a 1" cam because I'm puss. Not like the fall was far as the last bolt was all of 3 1/2 feet below, going for the anchors is easy ground run out but who cares. Russ went slightly left and straight up over the "roof" and made it look easy. If you were to do it that way and wanted pro, bring a 2" cam to protect the slot. Again, the last bolt is close...not like you're going anywhere.

Full sun in the winter makes for a nice afternoon destination.

My ego is keeping the rating as 5.9 but I agree with Locker...kinda easy for the grade Jan 20, 2007

ssp	[Hide Comment] Climbed this one bout 20 yrs ago and the first bolt looked like the original : Half hangin out, rusty spinner hanger. A little gripped when I got to it since I had said " I'll just run it up to that bolt should be fine" Wonder if it ever got replaced ???? Oct 25, 2011

Sean
Oak Park, CA

single yellow Alien to BD 1" cams. BD 0.5 at left side of roof also works and helps to lessen rope drag Oct 25, 2021