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Routes in East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)

Aero Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Aero TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Buenos Aires T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Casual T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chesire For President T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doin' Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exorcist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hemroidic Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hueco Wall T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jaws T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Love Goddess S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Military Industrial Complex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerd's Rump T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nurn's Romp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Que? T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rings Around Uranus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Search for Klingons T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smurf's Up T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
That T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Bolts Closer To Divorce T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trouble With Tribbles, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown 2 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wacko Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
What T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,039 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the arching crack to a large block, mount that and then head straight up on slabby face past two bolts to the top. A little runout up high but it gets progressively easier the higher you go. One star out of five.

Location

This is the next route right of Doin' Life and start from a prominent right-arching crack.

Protection

2 bolts, gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

alex carey
  5.7 PG13
alex carey  
  5.7 PG13
I thought it was good fun, wind blowing made it feel a little more exposed but the distance between bolts isn't that bad and right when you feel you really need another bolt it eases way up and your at the anchors. Feb 6, 2017
A bit over 100' to the anchors, with midpoint of 60 m rope ~10'' above ground. Single rope rap might work with stretch, but not sure. Dec 22, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
There is now a two bolt rap anchor after the slab eases off. This can also be used to top-rope this climb, as well as Doin' Life and Casual, but takes about 20' of runners to remove the rope drag. Apr 27, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Definately a fun climb - nice crack leading to sparsely protected slab. Don't let the R rating scare you, if you like slab, the runout is easy climbing and doesn't need any bolts. Apr 8, 2007
Nice slabby climb, not really a 5.7 if you're proficient in slab climbing. Not nearly as exciting as Jaws or Lickety Splits, but has value as far as adding to your route list. Oct 1, 2004
Drederek
  5.7
Drederek  
  5.7
This was easy for the grade and the upper slab reminiscent of 'Walk on the Wild Side'. Apr 1, 2004