Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East Wall, North End (Diamond Dogs Area)

Barking Spiders S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bong Along T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Borat TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bunnies TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Diamond Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guardian Angels S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lenore Goldberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lickety Dogs TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Lickety Splits T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
No-Doz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Teen Steam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Uncertainty Principle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zardoz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mat Cox and Shawn Curtis, 1974
Page Views: 1,000 total, 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the low-angled, dished-out face passing a small roof (gear here) partway up the route and climb past one bolt to anchors. This route is quite run-out so best be solid at the grade if attempting to lead it.

Location

This is the left-most route on the northern end of the formation and just left of Lickety Splits.

Protection

Gear to 1.5 inches, 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Lickety Splits)

Photos

Adam T.
San Diego, CA
 
Adam T.   San Diego, CA
 
If you go left at the roof there is another good place or two for pro. The slab above the block is easier than the slab on Lickety Splits imo. Mar 18, 2015
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
Yes very runout! No falling! Feb 27, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
A selection of TCU's? I placed one under the roof and that was all I could find! Ran right up the first time - loved it! Scared the hell out of me the second time I led it. The slab part is no issue but I really wouldn't want to fall from the side of the block, above the roof. From now on it's lead Lickety Splits and leave Zardoz for the TR. Apr 8, 2007
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
"The leader must not fall" ahh, those were the days, but before my time (honestly). Jan 24, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
fun May 12, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The name Zardoz comes from a 1974 sci-fi movie starring Sean Connery. Jul 16, 2002