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Alice in Wonderjam

5.9, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 39 votes
FA: Dick Shockley, Pete Wilkening and Jim Wilson, December 1974
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Comic Book Area > Alice Rock

Description

This climb is found on a south-facing formation several hundred yards uphill from the Comic Book formation. From the base of that formation scramble up the rocky hillside past numerous giant boulders to reach this nice crack.

Climb the obvious straight-in crack which widens from fingers to fists. Descend by walking off to the climber's right.

A good climb but be aware that is has a bit of an approach; it's not very far up to the base but it is an arduous affair that is perhaps more worthwhile if the other routes in the area are done.

Protection

Gear to 3.5 inches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tony Moser leading Alice in Wonderjam
[Hide Photo] Tony Moser leading Alice in Wonderjam
Lisa Pritchett leading Alice in Wonderjam
[Hide Photo] Lisa Pritchett leading Alice in Wonderjam
Another shot of Alice In Wonderjam, with Nicole's shadow going up White Rabbit.
[Hide Photo] Another shot of Alice In Wonderjam, with Nicole's shadow going up White Rabbit.
An up close view of the cliff to look for.  White Rabbit is in the middle of the face to the right; Alice in Wonderjam is the wider of the two cracks on the left wall.
[Hide Photo] An up close view of the cliff to look for. White Rabbit is in the middle of the face to the right; Alice in Wonderjam is the wider of the two cracks on the left wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Murf
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Always wanted to do this ( one of those not so "lost classics" ), but was deterred by the approach. Turned out to be a pain, but not that bad. I think my grade-o-meter is getting out of whack, 'cause this puppy seemed harder than 5.9 to me. Was sucker into descending more towards Box Canyon, which was a mini-canyoneering adventure (many dropped packs and slippery chimneys ). Dec 13, 2004
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] A ridiculously devious approach. Once we descended the correct "Rabbit Hole" we were, however, rewarded with a sweet crack route. The climb starts with technical thin stuff and widens to an off-width at the top.

The descent I used seemed to be about 5.1 downclimbing or so. Mar 24, 2007
Jeremy Werlin
Cedaredge, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Very stiff at the grade, IMO. Bringing a #4 camalot for the top wide bit is a good idea. Belay at the first ledge when you top out. Approach is an adventure, but not crazy. Very cool little grotto. Dec 12, 2009
[Hide Comment] Solid 3 stars, gets harder the higher you get, bring the C4 #4. Dec 20, 2013
Sean
Oak Park, CA
[Hide Comment] easier approach up hill slope outside and right of Box Canyon, as Bob mentioned elsewhere. tho an ordeal to scramble up the Comic Strip boulder gully, fairly easy afterward to come down that, DCR (Down Canyon Right) at first and, once low enough, angle DCL to Box Canyon to touch down sooner Feb 15, 2020
[Hide Comment] Well worth the scramble, fun climb. I first did it in the 70's on hexes, seemed straight forward to me. Feb 15, 2020
Not Hobo Greg
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Mmm mmm good! Great stances every body length, as you'll see from the ground. The above "found the right rabbit hole" comment made us laugh so hard on the approach, coming over after climbing Comic Book, we did a lot of poking around and backtracking, and then the correct rabbit hole presented itself. 2+ stars for the climbing, and 1 for the view. Adventurous downclimb! Feb 21, 2020