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Routes in Campfire Crag - North Face

Bonfire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campfire Girl T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Datura T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Inferno S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Klingon Pizza T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Little Brown Eye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickel Slots T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Omega T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prejudicial Viewpoint T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Presupposition T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Norm Saude & Bob Dominick, 1973, FFA (TR): John Long, 1978, FL: Unknown
Page Views: 3,243 total, 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 9, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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29 Opinions

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Description

Climb the nicely featured crack which ends about halfway up the face passing a 2 bolt anchor (5.8 to there) and then continue up the thin face above past 3 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Location

The crack to face just right of Prejudicial Viewpoint.

Protection

Gear to 1.5", 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
Tightened the intermediate anchors last weekend. Feb 17, 2012
Nut on the right bolt of the lower anchor was really loose on 1/24/12. I hand tightened it, but that was all I could do at the time. Jan 30, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
Great gear, nice climbing and always worth a run on..........to the first anchor. Beyond that, it's been too many years to recall doing the upper section. I remember thinking "one time only".

Bottom crack is friendly and goes at .8 or so. Enjoy! Nov 27, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Good crack. The upper face is fun to the first bolt. The moves around the second bolt are totally baffling and fully grainy. If you can get through that bodylength the stuff at the top is mellow. I'd call that bit 5.12. I'd also say not to bother with it and just do the excellent 5.8 crack to the low anchor. Nov 24, 2011
Is the top of this route really only 5.11d? Seemed like 5.12 when we first did it back in the around 1975. But it was super grainy and the old EBs were pretty shitty. Aug 6, 2011
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
 
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
 
This route is 5.11D if done as intended. After the last bolt which at one time was the only bolt. The route goes up and to the right on thin sightly overhanging face to the belay with no pro! Most commonly the crack sees all the action by most who visit. But for others the crack is just a vehicle to get to the real business the face above. Back in the 80's this route was considered a real test piece here at Indian cove. I think it still is.

Maybe ? My thinking is if you are unable to walk away its X. But I been wrong about these kind things before. I worked on this route off and on for years its pretty run-out. Give it a go ! Tell me what you think ? Thanks for the Props :) Apr 1, 2008
Props for pulling it off, but if you can take nine 20-foot wingers off of it and walk away each time, it probably doesn't deserve an R. Mar 27, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.8+
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.8+
The lower section takes plenty of gear, it is definitely NOT "R". A little awkward/balancy at times, but fun climbing. Anchors is two bolts with the fat Metolius rap hangers (i.e. no chain/rings); the second bolt is a little hard to see from the ground because of the angle it's oriented. Dec 25, 2006
R rating has gotta be for the upper face section. The lower crack will eat up gear. Mar 17, 2006
Pat W  
Why the R? Is that for the initial section or the upper slab? Feb 23, 2006