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Routes in Billboard Buttress

Bilbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack Alley V1-2 5
Driving Limitations T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gait of Power T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gait of Power Traverse V1 5
Knaug and Hyde T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Red Beckey (aka The Rabbi) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reverend, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheet Bends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip Silly (aka Forgotten Crack) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Squat Rockets T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
We Dive At Dawn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Scott Stuemke and Dick Armstrong, 1977
Page Views: 1,033 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Climb a boulder problem start past a bolt to reach a right-slanting crack and then left-slanting flakes that join with the upper portion of Squat Rockets.

  • The Gait of Power is a technique for running in total darkness as taught by Don Juan in the books of Carlos Castaneda.

Location

The face to crack between We Dive At Dawn and The Reverend.

Protection

One bolt (3/8"), gear to 3 inches

Photos

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I agree with Alex, seemed significantly harder than a 10a. Even a JTree '10a'. Sep 25, 2017
alex carey
  5.10b
alex carey  
  5.10b
bolt looked good, 5/21/2017. For the life of me my wife and I just couldnt see this going at 10a. I'm tall and she is short but we must have missed something. maybe its the FA from 77 or maybe its the old adage that the first 15 feet don't count, then again this route is only 15 feet long. May 23, 2017
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a/b
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a/b
There may have been a bolt replacement, since there is one with what appears to be a new hanger next to an older chopped bolt stub.
Nov 11, 2013
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
The bolt is almost falling out.

Definately an intriging route, albeit short. Nov 11, 2012
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a/b
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a/b
Did this route as a farewell climb after a week in the then-Monument. With sore fingertips, it seemed a bit harder then than 10a, but that was just sore tips talking. Not a bomb, but close...barely one star.

With a bouldering pad would make a decent highball problem. Feb 24, 2011
philistein
seattle
  5.10b
philistein   seattle
  5.10b
I think it's fun as a V-1 boulder problem that has a flat landing and tops out to an easy walk off. That bolt is pretty haggard anyway! I do think an extension (sorry, I meant linkup:) up the second face could be fun though. Mar 26, 2009
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Maybe not a bomb, but certainly no more than one star and barely worth doing. Oct 9, 2006
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.10b
It wouldn't take an act of god to make this route longer. A bolt or two more continuing straight up the face would do the trick. I set up a TR so I could continue straight up for an equal length of additional and equally challenging face climbing.

Maybe I am a wus, but the bolt on this climb seems a little high to me. If uncomfortable about hurting your feet, bring a crash pad or stick clip. I was lucky to rap from somebody's rope above but you can walk off right. A bit tricky so look at it before you head up. Oct 9, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.10b
Bo Johnston  
  5.10b
I really like this quick route! Someone gave me a tip to get my feet up on the first diagonal horizontal however I could and the rest would be cake and it was. Fun Feb 22, 2006
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
Hey, like I said, a bit of fun and worth the shot. Certainly not a TOTAL BOMB as suggested by CM. I give it no stars and will never do it again though. All just opinions of course. None more important than the other. All in fun. I take nothing personal on this or any other site Brian. Thanks however and climb on! Dec 20, 2003
Brian Reynolds
  5.10b
Brian Reynolds  
  5.10b
Well, Locker, I guess we disagree. It's not personal. I swear. Dec 17, 2003
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
Give it a million stars if you like!!! Whatever the case, climb it or not, like it or not, do as you damned well please! We had fun on it and thought it to be worthwhile, but too short. Call God and see if he/she can make it longer. Then I will add a few stars from heaven. Dec 16, 2003
Brian Reynolds
  5.10b
Brian Reynolds  
  5.10b
This climb is short but fun. I've had a good time hopping on it unroped, with just a boulder pad or two at the base for protection. You clear the crux by the time you're ten feet up, and then you can jump off. No way this deserves zero stars. Dec 16, 2003
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
Short! Too short!! Could it be shorter??? But a little bit fun noe the less. Dec 15, 2003