Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Horror Rock

Cactus Flower T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dog Day Afternoon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Father Ocean TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flash Gordon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garden Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labor Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lazy Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Senior Project T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Guys Gone Nuts, Gone to the Cops TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perhaps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull My Finger, Barbara T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slickery, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This is Only a Test T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trouble Chute TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Troy Mayr and Charles Cole, February 1988
Page Views: 2,227 total · 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

When this route was established Joshua Tree was going through some changes as sport climbing and rap bolting were becoming common in other climbing areas although Joshua Tree was still very much a traditional area and new routes still went in ground up for the most part. This climb was done in a unique style to uphold that "ground-up ethic" - as the climber lead up to each stance a power drill was hoisted up on a toprope! These days the atmosphere is more relaxed and most people are more concerned if the finished route is a quality one, which this one is.

Three bolts are found on this route, although some additional pro is required. At the start steep lieback moves (small gear) lead to an overhanging hand traverse which will get your blood flowing. Next you must mantle up onto a stance looking at a big fall potential as your last bolt is a ways down and left of you. Once up a lunge/long reach past a final bolt into a flake concludes the hard part. A bit of easy face leads to anchors.

There is also a direct start to this - This is Only a Test that bumps the grade up to solid 5.12 if the regular version is not enough.

Location

10' right of Lazy Day on the east face of the rock.

Protection

3 bolts (3/8" & 1/2" SS) and gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap (1/2" SS)

Photos

Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
The first two protection bolts and the belay/rappel anchor bolts have been replaced with 1/2” SS bolts and hangers courtesy of the ASCA. The third protection bolt had previously been replaced with a 3/8” SS bolt and hanger. Nov 28, 2017
drewp  
Was on this yesterday. The bolts are fine (I tested them...), looks like someone replaced them. The lunge/reach above the mantle can be avoided by some really interesting no hands stemming... fun! Oct 19, 2015
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
The bolt that is sticking out protects the upper crux. You will not be able to protect the upper crux without it as the gear is after the crux move. I would NOT trust this bolt. It is rusty and sticking out about 1 1/2". Not recommended for leading until this bolt is replaced... That aside, it's a GREAT route. Dec 3, 2012
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
 
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
 
The bolts through the crux are very solid, the last bolt that you clip is sticking out a bit but would likely hold the fall you would take on it, a .75 or a 1 goes in the crack above the lunge move to protect the top, more or less. Jan 26, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
I would not recommend clipping any of the bolts on this route. I would say this route is a top rope only until the bolts are replaced. I didn't look at the gear placements too hard, but I imagine it would be possible to place gear on this route at the bottom. Not much pro options at or past the third bolt.

I top roped this route after climbing Lazy Day to the left. Worked out great. If you are looking at trying a .11 in J-Tree and haven't lead any .11's in the area, this is a good one to try on top rope to get an idea of the area's .11 difficulty. Oct 10, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
The top lead bolt is indeed sticking out almost an inch, pretty sketchy. You can get gear after the top bolt which may be a good idea given the state of the bolt, even though you are past the hard moves. a 2 or 3 camalot should work, maybe extended to keep your rope running smooth. May 23, 2011
peachy spohn  
 
A fall past the mantle move could be pretty bad. Fun route and thoughtful moves, though I would give it an R rating. Mar 26, 2009
Adam D
Los Osos, CA
Adam D   Los Osos, CA
I believe there has been some bolt replacement on this climb Jan 31, 2009
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
The last bolt is sticking out about a half inch. Mar 21, 2006
The crux on this one as I remember wasn't the most enjoyable part of the climb. I remember standing on a pretty good ledge and good holds, (a crack maybe?) was just barely out of reach and I had to desperately lunge and stab for it. I remember thinking "Wow that was not aesthetic". Maybe I missed something but there are definitely more interesting 11s in Jtree. Aug 15, 2004
Steven Powers
  5.11b
Steven Powers  
  5.11b
i agree with randy, an awsome line as good or better than janes addiction. this climb is easily toproped by hiking up the NW side of the formation. Oct 23, 2003
Some friends put a TR on this route a few months back and when I took a stab at it I didn't know you moved up and left past the last bolt, but instead walked out the dike to the right and made a couple of very thin friction moves (11- maybe). Wouldn't want to do this on lead, as you'd look at a massive fall. I've also seen someone hand traverse the dike quite a ways right before mantling, for variety. Looks like you might get some small - medium cams in pockets in the dikes above the last bolt as it's a long way to the anchor, although quite easy. Mar 11, 2003
Randy
  5.11b/c
Randy  
  5.11b/c
Be sure to bring a few thin cams to protect the initial moves getting to the first bolt. Other than that, no other pro is really necessary. Easily top-roped from the bolt anchors.

If Jane's Addiction and such get 3 stars, this one deserves 3 as well (it is equally good). Jan 14, 2003