Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Troy Mayr and Charles Cole, February 1988
Page Views: 3,059 total · 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

When this route was established Joshua Tree was going through some changes as sport climbing and rap bolting were becoming common in other climbing areas although Joshua Tree was still very much a traditional area and new routes still went in ground up for the most part. This climb was done in a unique style to uphold that "ground-up ethic" - as the climber lead up to each stance a power drill was hoisted up on a toprope! These days the atmosphere is more relaxed and most people are more concerned if the finished route is a quality one, which this one is.

Three bolts are found on this route, although some additional pro is required. At the start steep lieback moves (small gear) lead to an overhanging hand traverse which will get your blood flowing. Next you must mantle up onto a stance looking at a big fall potential as your last bolt is a ways down and left of you. Once up a lunge/long reach past a final bolt into a flake concludes the hard part. A bit of easy face leads to anchors.

There is also a direct start to this - This is Only a Test that bumps the grade up to solid 5.12 if the regular version is not enough.

Location

10' right of Lazy Day on the east face of the rock.

Protection

3 bolts (3/8" & 1/2" SS) and gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap (1/2" SS)

Photos