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Routes in South Horror Rock

Cactus Flower T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dog Day Afternoon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Father Ocean TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flash Gordon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garden Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labor Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lazy Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Senior Project T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Guys Gone Nuts, Gone to the Cops TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perhaps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull My Finger, Barbara T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slickery, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This is Only a Test T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trouble Chute TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Charles Cole, Kelly Penix and Troy Mayr, 1988
Page Views: 1,569 total, 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs the left arete of the leftmost rock as seen from the parking area and it lies 20' left of an obvious crack (Lazy Day).

Three bolts and balance take one up this fun little route which is a good quick hit if in the vicinity.

From the top it is possible to rap from anchors located above and to the right of this climb (recommended) or one can walk off down left(climber's).

Protection

3 bolts (1/2" SS), gear to 3 inches for the anchors or use the bolted anchor/rap (3/8") off to the right atop Cactus Flower (don't forget to set a directional for your follower).
Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
The three protection bolts have been replaced with 1/2” SS bolts and hangers courtesy of the ASCA. Nov 28, 2017
Doug18  
Fun route
As of 4/2/16 bolts still spinners.
Bring gear to build anchor from on top of lazy days in small vertical crack.
Small pieces I used blue totem, .75BD, 1 Metolius, and green totem.
Walk off to your left faster than messing with rap. Apr 4, 2016
MAR
  5.10a
MAR  
  5.10a
I found clipping the first bolt difficult as I had to make the move around the bulge before the bolt could be clipped (i'm 5.5). Also...as of 11/29/10, all bolts are spinners. Dec 2, 2010
Bo Johnston  
 
I remember placing a cam in the crack system to the left before stepping out to make the first clip. A little insurance policy with drop you'd be looking at otherwise. After I made the clip, I pulled the cam. I thought the route was hard for a 10a. Feb 6, 2005
namascar
  5.10a
namascar  
  5.10a
Fun route, with a very conveniently placed first bolt. It is clipped from the side so that the crux move is well protected. There is super fun high step move shortly after.Great route for could winter days where anything else can be chili. Feb 2, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
A few comments:

1) Fun and balancy with well-placed bolts! There are at least two ways to start - up a crack on the left (easier), or on the right past on steep terrain and some good jugs (harder). Consider a crash pad/spotter if taking the righthand start.

2) The climbing eases up substantially after the 3rd bolt, but is runout to the top.

3) There is a nice incut "flake" to belay off, which can be backed up with a yellow TCU.

4) Rap as for Lazy Day and Cactus Flower with a single rope. Dec 21, 2002