Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Good to the Last Drop

5.9 R, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: Mike Waugh, Jan Mccollum and Dave Houser, 1977
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Hidden Valley C… > Wall > Wall - Right Side
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details DetailsDrop down

Description

Scramble up blocks to the base of this climb which starts above a deep chasm.

 Clip a bolt then make a tough move and proceed upward past another bolt which leads into a shallow crack/seam with somewhat scarce protection. The crack/seam dies out and somewhat exciting moves lead to a final bolt and the top.

The belay on top is somewhat difficult to arrange, and it's best to go WAY back and down the backside to a corner system.

 Easy walk off exists to the climber's right.

Location

Located on the rightmost section of The Wall. This is on the same face as Chalk Up Another One but 50 feet left of the chimney (Damn Jam) that splits the face into two halves.

Protection

3 bolts (1/2 inch SS)

Gear to 2.5 inches, including a #7 Hexentric 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Wall - Right Side with a climber on Chalk Up Another One (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] The Wall - Right Side with a climber on Chalk Up Another One (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
The runout to the last bolt is real. The follower is already above the last piece of natural gear in this photo. A great and exciting route.
<br>

<br>
Trip report: https://tenthousandtoofar.com/2026/03/01/five-months-in-paradise-joshua-tree-2025-recap-run-for-yo
[Hide Photo] The runout to the last bolt is real. The follower is already above the last piece of natural gear in this photo. A great and exciting route. Trip report: https://tenthousandtoofar.com/2026/03/01…
The mandatory follower runout after cleaning the final bolt
<br>

<br>
Trip report: https://tenthousandtoofar.com/2026/03/01/five-months-in-paradise-joshua-tree-2025-recap-run-for-your-life-falcon-the-snowman-illusion-dweller-and-more/
[Hide Photo] The mandatory follower runout after cleaning the final bolt Trip report: https://tenthousandtoofar.com/2026/03/01/five-months-in-paradise-joshua-tree-2025-recap-run-for-your-life-falcon-the-snow…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] There's a great slot for a medium-sized hex (#7) on this route before the final bolt. Oct 1, 2014
Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID
  5.10a R
[Hide Comment] This is a really sweet route hiding in plain sight. I was happy to see all the old bolts have been replaced with modern 1/2”. In terms of aesthetics and climbing style variety, this is a superior line to Chalk Up and Pumping Ego, following a seductive and ever thinning seam - a pure and natural trad line. I found more gear than expected, but the runout to the last bolt is very serious. Best be used to Joshua Tree friction… and stoked on that kind of thing… I am.

The anchor up top is very limited, you’ll need two #1’s and a #2, or belay over the back of the formation.

I cleaned up a lot of graininess over the course of my long lead, but there’s still some crystals to be shed. Nothing egregious, but maybe have some margin…

Recommended to anchor the belayer to the very low first bolt.

Standard rack to 3” plus extra hand size for anchor (see above) Dec 5, 2025