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Routes in The Wall - Right Side

Chalk Up Another One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Damn Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good to the Last Drop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pumping Ego T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, Mike Beck, Diane Pitts & Karl Mueller, 12/29/80
Page Views: 668 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb a ways up to the first bolt (1/2"), do the crux and then wander upwards on steep slab past three more bolts to the top. Gear belay and scramble/downclimb off to the climber's right (fastest being along the margin of the wall just right of this climb).

A worthwhile and fun route worth doing while in the area which is not nearly as greasy as it's neighbor to the left.

In a very rare and commendable move Alan replaced the bolts on this and all the other routes he put up in Joshua Tree; if more people took the time and effort to replace the old bolts on their routes places like Josh would be even nicer and certainly much safer - thanks a ton Alan!

Location

Found on the right-hand section of The Wall, this is the bolted route just right of Chalk Up Another One (5.10a) and the last climb encountered before the face ends in a jumble of stacked blocks.

Protection

4 bolts (1/2", 3/8"), pro to 3" for anchor

Photos

Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
While I did this route when young and stupid, I haven't since been willing to commit to making the dicey moves to the first bolt. If you're short (I'm 5'7"), it's a blind, committing reach that if you flub, well...you'll be talus food. Too bad because the climbing higher up is pretty nice. Jan 22, 2009
Adam Kimmerly
  5.10b PG13
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10b PG13
Agree with the previous comments - the moves to the first bolt are no walk in the park. Falling from the very committing crux, while not a long fall, wouldn't be much fun either. The climbing eases considerably after the crux moves and is relatively well protected. May 12, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b PG13
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b PG13
A bit run to the first bolt, immediately afterwhich is the bulging crux move(s). Jul 8, 2006
I strongly suggest that one approach this route from the first two bolts on "Chalk up another One". If the leader pops off the other side of the buttress-no protection, it will be grim. Feb 5, 2005