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Count Dracula
5.11a,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 30
votes
FA: Kevin Powell and Darrel Hensel, December 1978
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> Belle Campgroun…
> Belle Campground
> Castle Rock
> Castle Rock - N Side
Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect!
Details
Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Boulder up fairly high past some stiff moves to a bolt and continue up past two more to the top. Gear needed for anchor and walk off right (climber's).
- An interesting bit of trivia - On the first ascent the resourceful climbers dragged a picnic table over to the base of the wall, stood it on end, and finished drilled the first bolt standing atop it.
More about that 1st bolt
"Just wanted to clarify the comment about the picnic table. It is true, that is how the first bolt was eventually drilled. But, first Hensel and I spent about an hour climbing up and down, taking turns standing on the holds that you clip the first bolt off of now and hand drilling. Back then the drill bits we were using were brittle and if you hit the drill handle a little off center the bits would sometimes break. Just as I was finishing the hole that is exactly what happened. Rather than repeat that whole process over, we brought the picnic table over stood on it and re-drilled the hole." (Kevin Powell)
Location
This is the first route to the right of a slanting chimney/crack on the mid-section of the northwest face.
Protection
3 bolts (3/8"), gear to 3 inches for anchors
Around Boulder, CO
Aside of this, FYI- you can load a flake way up above it with a down-pointing horizontal crack with a load of small cams for a directional to keep your partner from swinging if they follow you. Take up a set of TCUs or Aliens and a piece of cord. Apr 14, 2003
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Visalia, Ca.
Torrance, CA
Small Town, USA
A crash-pad would be a welcome addition for most, as one of the cruxes is the move getting to the first bolt. Shorter folks may have trouble reaching the clip from the "good" stance. Some more cruxy moves lead away from the first bolt, and then the climbing gets a bit easier for the run-out from the second to the third. Feb 6, 2012
951-527-7959