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> Castle Rock - N Side
Count Dracula
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 31
votes
Routes in Castle Rock - North Side
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Bella Lugosi T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Belle-E-Up T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Belly Dancer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bride of Frankenstein TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chimney Sweep T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Count Dracula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Diabetics T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Diagnostics T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ground Finale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Half Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Junction Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Love at First Bite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Music Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Point Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rackless Abandon T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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That Old Soft Shoe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Transylvania Twist T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Two Point Crack T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0017, -116.0203 |
| FA: | Kevin Powell and Darrel Hensel, December 1978 |
| Page Views: | 3,269 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 5, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect!
Details
Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Boulder up fairly high past some stiff moves to a bolt and continue up past two more to the top. Gear needed for anchor and walk off right (climber's).
- An interesting bit of trivia - On the first ascent the resourceful climbers dragged a picnic table over to the base of the wall, stood it on end, and finished drilled the first bolt standing atop it.
More about that 1st bolt
"Just wanted to clarify the comment about the picnic table. It is true, that is how the first bolt was eventually drilled. But, first Hensel and I spent about an hour climbing up and down, taking turns standing on the holds that you clip the first bolt off of now and hand drilling. Back then the drill bits we were using were brittle and if you hit the drill handle a little off center the bits would sometimes break. Just as I was finishing the hole that is exactly what happened. Rather than repeat that whole process over, we brought the picnic table over stood on it and re-drilled the hole." (Kevin Powell)
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