Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimping Lessons S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mamunia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Age Crazy T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Middle Age Savage T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Solid Gold T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alan Nelson, Alf Randell January 1986
Page Views: 853 total, 5/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jul 5, 2002 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Shooting Star is a classic example of a "traditional" bolted route on flawless stone. It was established on-sight, ground-up, on the lead with all bolts hand-drilled from free stances, unlike most of its neighbors on the Astro Domes. The only reason it doesn't merit three stars is the serious nature of the climbing at some points dictated by the purity of the style in which it was done. There is risk of injury or death if you fall off some sections of the route. A cool head, a modern helmet, and a "no-falls" attitude are recommended for the leader.

P1: Start 40' right of Middle Age Crazy, 20' left of Such A Savage on a left slanting crack ramp. Head for a bolt 35' up. Continue straight up face past another bolt until Middle Age Crazy comes in from the left. Clip the third bolt on Middle Age Crazy, then diagonal up left along a natural break. Don't fall off the mantle (5.10) onto the next bolt stance - you'll crater onto the ledge/ramps of Middle Age Crazy with nasty consequences. The crux (5.11a) comes shortly after the bolt and is relatively well protected. Scratch up easier face past one more bolt to a bolt belay at a stance right of the Solid Gold belay.

P2: Head out right and up to a bolt. A slippery bit of 5.10 face leads past another bolt to an easier runout to the summit and a gear belay. Rap off from fixed anchors atop Solid Gold, or hike off the back, then north through a notch and around the North Astro Dome.

Protection

While predominantly bolt protected, this is NOT a sport route. P1: 5 bolts and some gear to a two bolt anchor. P2: Two bolts to a gear belay on top. Take a light rack of mid-size nuts to 2" cams. The original 1/4" rawl split bolts were replaced in 1990 with 3/8" hardware, and again in 2016 by the ASCA with 1/2" SS bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
alf
alf  
I still get the goosebumps thinking about the fa. Thank you Alan, for helping me to understand commitment and style. Jan 8, 2009
Randy  
The anchor atop the 2nd pitch is currently a beafy 2 bolt anchor with rap rings. You could easily rap the route with one 60 meter rope and 2 raps. May 16, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11b
Outstanding comments Alan. When I penned this into my "purple" guide, I thought for sure it was on my list. I never did get to it. After reading your description, I'm glad I didn't...It would have been over my head. Jun 22, 2004