PRINT: Rock Climb Piggle Pugg, Joshua Tree National Park

Piggle Pugg

5.10c, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3 from 78 votes
FA: Spencer Lennard and Chris Robbins, December 1977
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland South > Wonderland Valley > W Wonderland Va… > Astro Domes > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Start 20' right of Breakfast of Champions and climb the right-facing flake with a thin crack in the back. Higher, climb up and left on plates to join BOC at it's first pitch anchors. Rap off or continue up the fun second pitch of Breakfast of Champions.

This is a really fun lie-back flake that doesn't get done as much as it deserves as most people are at the Astro Domes to do the classic face routes like Solid Gold and Figures. Great moves and good gear are found on this worthwhile climb that is worth checking out, whether waiting for a classic to open up or just to log some extra mileage. Three stars out of five.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches with an emphasis on 1 inch or less, two bolt anchor/rap

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Close up of the Finger Crack

Finger Crack Great Route!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Craig Clarence

We thought this route was really good, with a clean thin lieback crux vaguely reminiscent of Valley climbing. The tough moves protect well with blue and green Aliens. Mar 11, 2003

Tyler Logan
Bishop, CA

Sustained crux. Gear can be a little strenuous to place, but this line can be sewed up with stoppers and TCUs. Shares anchors with the first pitch of "Breakfast of Champions" and can be easily toproped after climbing that route. Apr 16, 2006

Eric Sorenson
Las Vegas

5.10c

I've both led and toproped this climb and it is a much different experience both ways. It is difficult and awkward to see around the corner to place gear, making leading significantly more strenuous than toproping. Mar 25, 2007

Peter J
Bishop

Don't be dissuaded if you find yourself out here with a light rack. I found singles .2-2 and nuts to be more than enough. the crux is short brief Feb 22, 2021