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Routes in North Horror Rock - South & East Faces

Glumpies T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grape Nuts, Why Not? T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grit Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
House Of The Homeless S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lay Back and Enjoy It (aka A Dog In The Ass) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ungawaa S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tobin Sorenson, Rick Accomazzo, & Jim Wilson, December 1973
Page Views: 3,568 total, 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start in a right-facing corner to approach the roof crack, plug in a piece or two under the roof and turn the lip where the crack quickly widens (this is where the big cam will come in handy). A large flake broke off several years ago and has bumped the grade up from it's previous rating (5.10c).

A recommended route for the area that merits three stars out of five.

Location

Looking from the parking area you will see two obvious rock formations that both culminate in a tower of sorts. This route climbs the right formation via the obvious roof crack easily seen from afar. It lies across from Dog Day Afternoon which is on the left formation.

Protection

Gear to 3" (include a 4"-5" piece for the roof), bolted anchor/rap (3/8") at the top
dnaiscool  
 
In December of 1973 I climbed at JT with Mike Jaffe, and we did the immediate second ascent of "Glumpies" (but we were calling it "Pope's Crack" since he'd just led the FA.) When we topped out we hung around to give encouragement to Tobin Sorenson, et al, who were working "The Grit Roof". I'm not quite sure where he fit in on the line up, but Mike Jaffe definitely followed the crack that day.

I am quite sure we witnessed the FA of this little beast. Apr 12, 2015
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
Just climbed this yesterday. Used (2) #3 camalots for the easy approach crack, and was able to place a .75 camalot extended under the roof and a #1 camalot right at the turn of the roof lip all from a solid stance. I turned the lip, popped in a #4, (definitely could have put in a #5 instead) and blasted to the top. As a 5'8" guy with thick hands this climb was absolutely 5.11a for me. I had to let my feet completely cut into space off of really thin jams to high step to the foothold on the face. I've done plenty of 5.10+ and 5.11's in jtree and this one would have been 5.10 if I could have reached the higher bomber jams or if I had smaller hands to make the lower jams good. Having the option or neither, I'm going to rate it a stout 5.11a for myself. With a grain of salt. Don't get suckered into trying to use the face hold on the right. It's a sucker hold, all hand jams will get er done. Nov 23, 2014
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
OK..I'll give it 5.10d.....that big hold at the lip was a foothold;..not a handhold;......so when it broke off, it made the climb easier;......didn't sucker people into grabbing it anymore....(so now that it is in fact, easier;...it's probably 5.10b?.....).. Nov 27, 2013
RTM
RTM  
Vogel's '92 guide has it as .10c, his new one has it at .11a, get with the times Todd. I remember when the big hold at the lip first broke off, all the south O.C. hardpersons were rumoring it .11c. Nov 27, 2013
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Vogel's guidebook has it at 5.10c.......that's what I've always called it...... Nov 26, 2013
Kevin DB
  5.10d
Kevin DB  
  5.10d
Awesome route, but it's probably the easiest 5.11 in J-Tree. Nov 26, 2013
Adam D
Los Osos, CA
Adam D   Los Osos, CA
I'd agree on 11a. I did it with just a new style #4 above the roof (placed from the first fist jam just above the lip) and felt fine...the wider sections get much easier quickly. Fun jams. Oct 23, 2007
i like this climb but i dont think it deserves as many stars as illusion dweller...... and i agree with randy 11a is a much fairer grade. Aug 25, 2003
Dynomight510
  5.10d
Dynomight510  
  5.10d
Below the roof takes 3/4-1.5" cams. It's perfect hands at the lip of the roof and widens to offwidth from there. The 4.5 or 5 camalot has a home after your pull around the lip but it's is still hard at this point. With the flake gone, I would rate it harder than 5.10c. Aug 19, 2003
Randy
  5.11a
Randy  
  5.11a
This route has definitely gotten harder since the large "pancake" shaped flake under the roof was pulled off. Jan 14, 2003
Murf  
Flake above the overhang is gone, definately harder than .10c, some say .11a now. Jul 9, 2002