Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Evans & Jim Angione, 1/78 FFA: (TR) John Bachar 3/78, FL: J. Bachar 1979
Page Views: 25,398 total · 146/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


77 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb is the centerpiece of Sports Challenge Rock and is located two climbs to the right of Clean and Jerk (5.10c) just right of a large pine tree.

Boulder up a short face to a sloping ledge and from there make a series of technical, strenuous moves up an overhanging wall past a flake to a horizontal. From there the climb continues up steep rock past more horizontals to the top.

Usually (and easily) top-roped this climb is a great climb to pump out on, as it is a far cry from the usual slab paddling found in the Park. This climb makes a great lead/workout climb for those so inclined. A great climb on a great wall, the only thing it lacks is distance from the crowds.

Protection

A good selection of wires and cams to 3" will see you through to the top. Pro is good, but strenuous to place (especially onsight).
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.12a
Randy   Lassitude 33
  5.12a
Robert, nice photos of the Beav...

One of the best routes in the Park. 5 of 5 stars. Mar 19, 2003
I read in the latest Rock and Ice (Ethics issue) that someone chipped footholds into the Beaver. The quote came from Bachar. I have never been on this route, but can anyone confirm this? Man I hope that is not the case! Oct 29, 2004
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.12a
Randy   Lassitude 33
  5.12a
Chipped footholds is BS. Oct 29, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.12a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.12a
Was Bachar's solo ascent the FL indicated in the route's description? Mar 13, 2006
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.12a
Randy   Lassitude 33
  5.12a
No. Bachar TR'd it free first. Lead it later and still later free soloed it. Mar 14, 2006
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
just awesome. pumpy.

if TR'ing, webbing's nice. we used extended the anchor with an extended cordellete and one 24" runner. takes #1,#2,#3 BD cams perfectly. Oct 23, 2008
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
Left a nut below the crux sequence. Now there are two fixed nuts - one below the crux sequence, and one above the crux sequence. Unless someone was able to clean it... I spent quite a bit of time trying to no avail. Nov 1, 2012
Jonathan Adam
California
 
Jonathan Adam   California
 
No fixed nuts as of January '13. Incredible route. I was impressed by how much tape gloves helped me on this one. Then again, I do use the double-karate-chop-hand-jam beta... Jan 28, 2013
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
Great video! Better in some ways than a lot of the new stuff coming out. ;) May 22, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Am I missing something, or does the route in the video of Bachar look nothing like the other photos that are posted here? He climbs a horizontal roof, and I don't see that in the photos or description. Is there another route of same name or am I just an idiot? Jul 17, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
The roof in the video is More Funky Than Monkey. Leave it to Beaver is at the end of the video. Jul 17, 2013
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
We used to run TR laps on the "Beaver" at the end of the day circa 1977 and and Bachar could hike it so easily I said, "Why don't you just lead it." He did, placing four nuts, and I followed and cleaned it. John was masterful back then.

JL Jun 25, 2015
Tristan Bradford
Oklahoma City, OK
Tristan Bradford   Oklahoma City, OK
Gear: .4, .3, #1 long sling, .5, red c3, #2, .75 Dec 5, 2018
Alec Sharp and I made a pilgrimage to JT, circa 1978/79. Leave It To Beaver has yet to be led but had been toproped by several folks. Alec and I both toproped it once and returned the next day to lead it, sans cams (pre cams for anyone not close friends with Ray Jardine). Alec all but sent the route - wildly pumped, he hung on his last (poorly placed) piece - after the hard climbing let up. I urged Alec to rest up and have a second go but he felt having first toproped the climb was already poor form and he didn’t want to be associated with a botch job. I seem to recall that Yablonski soloed it before Bachar led or soloed it - both after dozens of efforts on TR. Dec 5, 2018