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Routes in Sports Challenge Rock - East Face

Blue Jean Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Championship Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean and Jerk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cool But Not Too Concerned TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cool but Concerned T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Disco Decoy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hang and Swing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lobster, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Evans & Jim Angione, 1/78 FFA: (TR) John Bachar 3/78, FL: J. Bachar 1979
Page Views: 22,868 total, 146/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb is the centerpiece of Sports Challenge Rock and is located two climbs to the right of Clean and Jerk (5.10c) just right of a large pine tree.

Boulder up a short face to a sloping ledge and from there make a series of technical, strenuous moves up an overhanging wall past a flake to a horizontal. From there the climb continues up steep rock past more horizontals to the top.

Usually (and easily) top-roped this climb is a great climb to pump out on, as it is a far cry from the usual slab paddling found in the Park. This climb makes a great lead/workout climb for those so inclined. A great climb on a great wall, the only thing it lacks is distance from the crowds.

  • Some good footage of John Bachar soloing the route back in the 1980's - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03udLvtNR6Y

Protection

A good selection of wires and cams to 3" will see you through to the top. Pro is good, but strenuous to place (especially onsight).
We used to run TR laps on the "Beaver" at the end of the day circa 1977 and and Bachar could hike it so easily I said, "Why don't you just lead it." He did, placing four nuts, and I followed and cleaned it. John was masterful back then.

JL Jun 25, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
The roof in the video is More Funky Than Monkey. Leave it to Beaver is at the end of the video. Jul 17, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Am I missing something, or does the route in the video of Bachar look nothing like the other photos that are posted here? He climbs a horizontal roof, and I don't see that in the photos or description. Is there another route of same name or am I just an idiot? Jul 17, 2013
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
Great video! Better in some ways than a lot of the new stuff coming out. ;) May 22, 2013
Jonathan Adam
California
 
Jonathan Adam   California
 
No fixed nuts as of January '13. Incredible route. I was impressed by how much tape gloves helped me on this one. Then again, I do use the double-karate-chop-hand-jam beta... Jan 28, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
Left a nut below the crux sequence. Now there are two fixed nuts - one below the crux sequence, and one above the crux sequence. Unless someone was able to clean it... I spent quite a bit of time trying to no avail. Nov 1, 2012
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
just awesome. pumpy.

if TR'ing, webbing's nice. we used extended the anchor with an extended cordellete and one 24" runner. takes #1,#2,#3 BD cams perfectly. Oct 23, 2008
Randy
  5.12a
Randy  
  5.12a
No. Bachar TR'd it free first. Lead it later and still later free soloed it. Mar 14, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.12a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.12a
Was Bachar's solo ascent the FL indicated in the route's description? Mar 13, 2006
Randy
  5.12a
Randy  
  5.12a
Chipped footholds is BS. Oct 29, 2004
I read in the latest Rock and Ice (Ethics issue) that someone chipped footholds into the Beaver. The quote came from Bachar. I have never been on this route, but can anyone confirm this? Man I hope that is not the case! Oct 29, 2004
Randy
  5.12a
Randy  
  5.12a
Robert, nice photos of the Beav...

One of the best routes in the Park. 5 of 5 stars. Mar 19, 2003