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Figures on a Landscape (aka Monkey on My Back)

5.10b R, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.9 from 217 votes
FA: Randy Vogel and Dave Evans, November 1978
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland South > Wonderland Valley > W Wonderland Va… > Astro Domes > N Astro Dome > N Astro Dome - Northe…
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Description

A very exciting and fun route and one of the best face climbs anywhere. Bring gear for the crack on the third pitch. There are just enough bolts to make the climbing sane, but a fall in a number of places could be bad news. Make sure both leader and follower are solid 5.10 climbers as the traverse at the end of pitch one is serious for both. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are easily linked and in fact recommended.

The route starts from atop a large boulder on the left side of the northeast face of the North Astro Dome.

P1) An incredible pitch!! Face climb up and right 30' to the first bolt (easy, but don't screw it up). From the bolt climb up and right to an insecure high-step move (crux, a fall could hurt) and continue up with sustained climbing past 5 more bolts (9+/10a). Traverse straight right for 30 feet past one set of anchors (don't belay here; it's an 80' rap to ground from here) and continue with wild climbing (5.10b with big swing potential) to another set of anchors (belay here; 95' rap to ground from here).

P2) Climb straight up past 1 bolt (5.9) to easier, but runout climbing. Belay at a ledge below the finishing corner or, better yet, link this pitch with the last pitch.

P3) Climb the left-facing dihedral to the top (5.9, gear necessary).

The descent options are thus:

1) Walk off (poor choice).

2) Rap off the left shoulder of North Astro Dome with one rope in two single raps. The first station is just down from the summit, and the second station is located slightly down and left from the first station. This series of raps will put you just up and left of your packs.

3) Rap off the South Astro Dome in two raps with one rope via the route Breakfast of Champions.

Protection

Bolts and a small rack consisting of nuts and cams up to 3 inches. 

Bring quickdraws and a few longer slings as well.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike Njoten nearing the finish of pitch one on Figures on a Landscape (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] Mike Njoten nearing the finish of pitch one on Figures on a Landscape (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
me on P1
[Hide Photo] me on P1
DE on the FA of "Figures on a Landscape."
[Hide Photo] DE on the FA of "Figures on a Landscape."
Approaching the traverse on the 1st pitch of Figures. Climbers: Krzysztof Gorny and Darin Limvere. Photo by an unknown climber. Many thanks!
[Hide Photo] Approaching the traverse on the 1st pitch of Figures. Climbers: Krzysztof Gorny and Darin Limvere. Photo by an unknown climber. Many thanks!
Approaching the traverse on the 1st pitch of Figures. Climbers: Krzysztof Gorny and Darin Limvere. Photo by an unknown climber. Many thanks!
[Hide Photo] Approaching the traverse on the 1st pitch of Figures. Climbers: Krzysztof Gorny and Darin Limvere. Photo by an unknown climber. Many thanks!
figures on a landscape circa 1995
[Hide Photo] figures on a landscape circa 1995
Will and Sean, 20 years old, send figures.
[Hide Photo] Will and Sean, 20 years old, send figures.
Famous guidebook author (RV) on the FA of Figures On a Landscape. The photo is tilted but in the wrong direction!
[Hide Photo] Famous guidebook author (RV) on the FA of Figures On a Landscape. The photo is tilted but in the wrong direction!
Ivan starting the 9/10a second pitch.  The first bolt can be seen way up above his head to the right of the second tiny corner facing right.  A couple of slings over flakes psychologically protect the upper run out to the corner system above.
[Hide Photo] Ivan starting the 9/10a second pitch. The first bolt can be seen way up above his head to the right of the second tiny corner facing right. A couple of slings over flakes psychologically protect…
Figures on a landscape<br>
[Hide Photo] Figures on a landscape
Nothing like climbing with family. Leaving the Hanging belay "whew"
[Hide Photo] Nothing like climbing with family. Leaving the Hanging belay "whew"
On March 16, 2021 Kate Mylan took the gnarliest pendulum fall I've ever seen (from the mantle just before the final P1 anchor). We swapped leads, she hopped back on and sent. Absolute badass.
[Hide Photo] On March 16, 2021 Kate Mylan took the gnarliest pendulum fall I've ever seen (from the mantle just before the final P1 anchor). We swapped leads, she hopped back on and sent. Absolute badass.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] This may help in locating the first rap off the North Astro Dome- From the summit of the formation walk west (this would be towards the South Astro Dome) and then down towards the edge of the formation. This may be where the problem exists, because if you don't head down far enough you'll never spot the anchors. This may help in locating the rap anchors. Jul 9, 2002
Brad G
 
[Hide Comment] The best route I have ever done in Jtree. I lead both pitches and the scariest part of the climb for me came after the bolt on the second pitch. It got kind of runout for a little while. A severe fall if you mess it up. The fist pitch never got runout and was very memorable. ***** Nov 10, 2007
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.10b/c PG13
[Hide Comment] Had the distinct honor and pleasure to repeat this route with Dave Evans -- 30 years after our first ascent. The climb has great sustained moves and still demanded our respect. We felt pretty good still being able to climb this -- for a couple old guys.

Using a long runner on the 5th bolt (before making the long traverse right) certainly helps with potential rope drag. No need to put a long sling on the left hand belay bolt (as suggested above). Instead, having the rope clipped to a draw up high on the left bolt provides a good TR for the follower at the crux.

As the great shots above demonstrate, bring a camera on the route. Dec 4, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c R
[Hide Comment] Classic story stonemastergear.com/index.p… of how that Vogel dude used the nasty (aka AID) in the FA Jul 29, 2009
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c R
[Hide Comment] An unabridged version(s) of this route's history can be found HERE supertopo.com/climbers-foru… . Feb 1, 2011
Russ Walling
Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…
 
[Hide Comment] I just wanted to thank Randy and Dave for their vision, boldness and drive to get this great route installed and ready for the appreciative masses. It is one of the best routes anywhere and deserves all possible thumbs up. Nice work you two! Feb 10, 2011
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c R
[Hide Comment] Worthy of all the hype. There is only 1 bolt on the second pitch, not two as listed here and in the guides. The biggest runout on route is on the 5.9+ second pitch. 1 bolt for the first 50+ feet of steep edging. Nov 4, 2012
[Hide Comment] Outstanding route Dave and Randy, and great achievement for the day.

I remember feeling it was an amazing climb when I first did it and quite visionary. Sep 4, 2013
[Hide Comment] As Randy notes above and in his green book, there are 5 bolts before the traverse. I *believe* the topo we were using--must have been from the Miramontes book--showed 6 bolts. Don't waste time hunting for #6; it's not there.

The fact that this climb is in the Wonderland vastly adds to its appeal. It wouldn't be the same on Intersection Rock.

First bolt is dangerously high, but easy to get to. The rest of the climb would just involve big air, maybe a little scraping.

I used a yellow c4 at the start of the ramp on p2, then a blue (bumped up once), red, and yellow in the corner, in that order, I think. A 2nd blue would be nice if you don't want to bump up the first. Dec 4, 2013
Toby960 Pritchard
Puyehue, CL
 
[Hide Comment] Heres a story of my ascent on figures. enjoy!

theloveaffairwithgravity.bl… Sep 20, 2014
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b R
[Hide Comment] Definitely deserves the R rating. I might have scoffed at that comment a few years ago, but I climbed it for the third time in 20 some years yesterday and fell just before reaching the belay ledge. Took a mighty swing into the slightly curving wave of rock about 20ft down right into the ribs and I am lucky to have escaped without more serious damage. Even more frightening however was what happened to the rope. Curious if this has happened to anyone else?
Mar 25, 2017